week 21 - 24 white sandy beaches, family & friends and Tanzanian hospitality

After our 7-days adventure on Mount Kilimanjaro, we returned to Simba Farm, where our Defender was patiently waiting for us. After some rather tough nights in a tent up on the mountain we were desperate for a good night’s sleep and even more important, a shower! Since it was my birthday the next day, Tom decided to surprise me and instead of sleeping in the car, he booked a cozy cottage at Simba Farm and we really enjoyed the luxury together with a delicious dinner and a bottle of wine. The next day, we were served a nice brunch and a birthday cake. The next morning we had a very early flight from Kilimanjaro airport straight to Zanzibar, where we spent 2 weeks together with Tom’s parents and our friends Martin and Tamara. They came to visit us and Zanzibar was the perfect spot to enjoy a few nice days together on the beach as well as to recover from Kilimanjaro. If you are looking for white sandy beaches, an ocean in every shade of blue with the temperature of a bathtub, sunshine, delicious restaurants, nice bars and good vibes, Zanzibar is definitely the place to go. We enjoyed the time with family and friends and exploring the island together, which included a trip to Stone Town, the spice market, the Rock (a delicious famous restaurant), Changuu Island (with a tortoise sanctuary) and many days at the beach or in and on the water when scuba diving or stand-up paddling.

After two weeks it was time to say goodbye again. Our visitors had to fly back home to Switzerland and Tom and I flew back to Kilimanjaro airport, where we picked up our Defender, which we could store safely at the Airbnb place we booked for the night before and after our Zanzibar trip. We started back into the overlanding-life with a car wash the next morning and then drove to Arusha, where we stocked up on food and other supplies, like filling up our gas bottle for cooking. We then headed a little bit outside of town - we received a tip to go check out the Blue Heron, a restaurant run by Beate, who’s grandparents originally moved to Tanzania from Switzerland in the late 1920ies. The Blue Heron does not have an official camping site, but there is plenty of space to set up a tent (or tent on a car) and the hospitality we experienced from Beate and her family was beyond words. We got to stay there for free and for as long as we wanted, and since we really liked it a lot, we ended up camping there for a whole week. Beate’s parents invited us to their home, her mom baked a delicious cake for us with raspberries from her backyard, and they even brought us some freshly baked bread in the morning. The pizza’s at the restaurant were the best we had eaten so far in Africa and the happy hours were tempting to taste all the great cocktails on the menu. Since Beate didn’t have a website yet for her restaurant, we ended up building one for her. We therefore took some nice shots with the camera and drone, you can find the result here :) In return for our work, Beate waived half of our bills from the restaurant and on top, she tailored two dresses for Tom, since she also runs a store and an atelier where she produces beautiful African-inspired fashion as well as decoration.

We also met with our two Kilimanjaro-Guides Gasper and Edward, who both live in Arusha too. They came to pick us up in their Tuk-Tuk and after taking us to the market in town to help us find the best fruits and veggies we spent a fun night out at various local bars, restaurants and clubs. On the way home, we got some Chips Mayai (Fries with eggs, which is a local meal and an amazing “I’m-drunk-and-need-some-food-before-bed”-dish, we can highly recommend).

We must admit, there were a few mornings during that week when we woke up and swore not to drink again but we had a lot of fun with “old” and “new” friends and it was quite hard to pack up and leave this lovely place behind. But there was more of Tanzania waiting for us to be explored.

We headed towards Lake Manyara further west. We were told by various people we have met on the way that we should go and check out Migombani Campsite, since it was supposed to be very nice. So we did, and weren’t disappointed, the showers and toilets were modern and sparkling clean including great water pressure (which is a rare find) and furthermore, they had a nice bar with infinity pool, definitely a place worth staying for a couple of nights. We met some nice fellow overlanders from Germany and enjoyed exchanging experiences over a cold beer at the pool.

Tom and I didn’t have an actual plan where to go next, the only thing we knew was our direction towards Lake Victoria, so we started discussing different options (which usually ends in having even more options and sometimes, this can get a bit overwhelming). We talked to a tourguide regarding a hotair balloon safari over the Serengeti (the wild migration was just passing in the southern part) and we also considered to hike up an active vulcano, Mount Ol Doinyo Lengai, but all these activities cost a fortune due to the horrendous national park entry fees for non-residents in Tanzania. We decided to move on and check out the Plantation Lodge, a place Beate and her friends recommended us to vist, since it was supposed to be a beautiful place and they had a nice wine cellar, this would for sure help to make up our mind. What a great idea this was!

The Plantation Lodge was only a short drive away, located in Karatu. When we arrived at the gate, the security guard however informed us, that they were closed that day since they had no hotel guests. He told us to make a reservation for the next day, when they would be open again. So we looked for a camping site close-by and cooked ourselves a nice dinner instead. The next morning, we called at the Lodge again and made plans to come by for dinner that day (an overnight stay exceeded our budget unfortunately). In order to make use of the wine cellar, we arranged for a “taxi” to drive us there and pick us up later. Our driver arrived in an old, lowered Toyota and knowing the bumpy dirtroad to the lodge from the previous day I was already a bit concerned if we would get there after the rain from last night. But we did, eventhough it was a slippery drive, and got to enjoy an amazing afternoon and evening at the lodge. Jackson, the receptionist, showed us around on the 17 acres property including their fish pond and their fields where they grow their own fruits and veggies. During dinner (and the second wine bottle) it started raining like cats and dogs, I have never seen that much water coming down from the sky at once. We were just discussing, how on earth we would get back again, when Renate, the owner of the lodge, appeared at our table. “Ach, die Schweizer”, she said, explaining that Beate already informed her that we would possibly stop by. She joined us for some wine and quickly told us that there was no way for us to get back to town and that she would prepare a room for us to stay. So unexpected, we ended up spending the night there anyway. Renate added, that she would have to go to Arusha early the next day to run some erands but she would have one of her staff drive us to the campsite to get our car and we would be invited to stay for another night and to have dinner with her again. We couldn’t believe our luck, the Plantation Lodge was definitley a “small” piece of paradise on earth!

week 8 - preparations for Africa, exploring Athens and a very short pit stop back home

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise tucked in the rooftop bed of our Defender, we packed up our home for the last time in Greece and drove into the busy city of Athens, where we had booked an Airbnb apartment for the last few days. We had some final preparation tasks on our Todo-list, before we had to drive the Defender into the container for shipping. At first, a “Lavasz” was desperately needed, so we searched for some carwash places and found one very close by - the guys did a great job, we almost didn’t dare to sit back into the Defender, it was super shiny. The next day, we spent all day in the car repair shop. We just reached our first 5000 kilometers of the trip, it was time to have our baby checked if everything was still fine (breaks, engine oil, air filter, you name it). Additionally, we wanted to get our roof checked. We were a bit worried since we have put a lot of heavy stuff up there such as the toolbox as well as the spare wheel. Of course we knew that it wasn’t the best to have the heavy stuff on the top of the car, but these were the things we didn’t use on a daily basis (or at least we hope so), therefore, it was still very handy to store them up there and have them out of sight. Going on like this driving on worse roads in Africa wasn’t probably the best idea. So we discussed the option to get a spare wheel carrier for the back door. Greece was definitely one of the last chances to find such a carrier. The car repair shop we went to event had one in storage. Unfortunately, it was not a very cheap deal, but after we have called Anna, our mechanic from Switzerland to get a second opinion, we decided to spend the money and move the spare wheel down from the roof. 11 hours (!) later, we got to pick up our baby.

We also got to enjoy beautiful Athens besides all our preparation work for Africa. Of course we went on another Free Walking Tour through the city and learned a lot about its history. We visited many ancient places like theatres, the Olympic Stadium and of course Acropolis. Other than its overwhelming history, Athens also offers amazing restaurants and bars and very friendly people. A guy we met at the car repair shop invited us to his place for a Thanksgiving Dinner Party. Of course we accepted the invitation, it was a lot of fun. In fact, we enjoyed our time in Athens so much, we almost forgot to get our final tasks done, which included:

  • cleaning all our camping and kitchen tools and store them away in the car safely

  • writing a packing list with everything that will be in the container (this is necessary for shipping)

  • deciding what to bring with us for the first weeksin Africa and pack accordingly

  • driving the Defender to the warehouse where it was stored away into the container

Unfortunately, we weren’t there to see how our home on wheels was stored away in the container, we had to leave earlier to catch our flight. It was such a weird feeling when we drove to the warehouse and handed over the Defender and the keys together with everything we left in it - the Dender really did become our home over the past two months and now the first part of our trip was already coming to an end and we were about to leave Europe. What an amazing time it was and a perfect start into this adventure.

We were off to a very very short visit back home to quickly see our family and friends and enjoy one Raclette and Fondue before we flew to Kenya, where we will have to wait for our Defender until it hopefully arrives safe and sound at Mombasa Port - fingers crossed :)

week 1 - austrian cuisine, family visits and rainy autumn days

When life throws you a rainy day, play in the puddles!
— unknown
Facts & Figures
● 908 kilometers in the Defender
● 85505 steps by foot
Highlights
● Salzburger Nockerl in Salzburg
● Apfelstrudel by Oma
● wine tasting in Südsteiermark
Lowlights
● rainy days...

And there it was, October 3rd, 2021 - the date we planned to leave Switzerland and drive off in our Defender. And we did, with the usual delay of a few hours, but hey, what are two hours compared to the time we have planned for this trip. From now on, we won’t have deadlines and strict schedules to stick to.
We got our last coffees in our favourite coffee shop down the road from our apartment, Liv smoked her very last cigarette (new life, healthier habits - or at least that’s the idea) and then we started the engine. Unnecessary to tell you how unreal it felt to drive off, knowing we won’t come back for such a long time. Destination: Africa, next stop: Germany.


We spent our first night at a beautiful camping spot in Berchtesgaden (Germany). Since it was already the end of the season, we didn’t have trouble finding space on a campsite. Unfortunately, the warm summer nights have also passed... We parked the car and opened a bottle of a costly champagne Tom once received as a gift, but we figured the first night of our trip would be the perfect moment to drink it :) The next day we drove onto the “Rossfeld Panoramastrasse” and parked at “Ofnerboden,” from where we hiked up to the “Purtschellerhaus.” The mountain hut is built on the Austrian and German border, and you can reach it from both sides. We chose the Austrian way up, enjoyed a “Brettljausen,” “Kaspressknödel,” and a “Radler” in the sun, and walked the German way back down. There was a distillery next to the car parking spot, and we got the opportunity to taste some “Schnaps” and learn about different methods and ingredients of distilling. We then headed towards Salzburg, and when we arrived at Camping Schloss Aigen, which we chose for our sleeping spot, we found that they were just about to close; however, we got to stay the night for free. We cooked dinner and enjoyed the (foggy) view over Salzburg, where we were headed the next day.


Going to bed early when camping due to the lack of light comes with the benefit of being up early in the morning. We packed our stuff and went straight into the city for our first coffee. Ordering a coffee in Austria is not that simple as you might think. My first Cappuccino came with whipped cream and I learned, that if I would like to receive a Cappuccino with milkfoam I must order a “Melange”. We went from coffee place to coffee place and tasted different coffees (“kleiner Brauner” = similar to an espresso, “grosser Brauner” = doppio, “Verlängerter” = Cafe Creme or filter coffee, “Einspänner” = espresso with whipped cream on top). The list doesn’t end here, but our capability of drinking more caffeine and tasting more sweets (definitely recommend the Mozartkugeln and Punschkrapferl). We went to see the Salzburg Fortress, strolled through the Old Town and passed the birth place of Mozart, walked around Mirabell Palace and the beautiful gardens and went to the Bärenwirt for lunch, where we ate the famous “Backhendl” and of course “Salzburger Nockerl” for dessert. Salzburg definitely seduced us with culinary highlights!


For the night we drove to Wolfgangsee, a beautiful area a couple of hours outside of Salzburg. Unfortunately, the weather was very cloudy and cold but we still enjoyed the night directly at the lake at Camping Wolfgangsee Berau. For dinner, we walked along the lake to Strobl and we just got back in time before the rain. The next morning, we made use of the gym at the Camping Site and then drove to Judenburg, where Tom’s Oma (grandmother) lives. We got to stay in Tom’s parents apartment close-by, which was perfect, since it didn’t stop raining for 2 days straight.
The weather didn’t spoil us, but Oma Hilde did. She cooked and baked and we ate until we almost bursted: Wiener Schnitzel, Leberknödelsuppe, Apfelstrudel, Schupfnudeln, Frittatensuppe, Kürbiskernroulade - we got it all and it was delicious! We enjoyed the time together very much.


Our last stop in Austria led us to the Südsteiermark, e region famous for its wine. On our way from Judenburg to Gamlitz we stopped to see the Hundertwasserkriche, a colorful church designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser. We stayed two nights at Obstgut Ledinegg, a beautiful fruit farm with only five camping spots. The weather was not great but nevertheless we were not the only campers. While setting-up our little camp, we talked to our neighbours, another couple who headed to South Africa on a different route, two retired couples who enjoyed camping in a bit more luxurious campers but were very interested in the Defender - it was very interesting exchanging our camping experiences. Walter and Gabi who run the farm were very welcoming and even lent us their motorbike so we could quickly drive to Gamlitz to get some groceries. The next day, the sun came out again and we took the chance to go for an extended hike through the vinyards, tasting differents wines on the way, eating Jausen and enjoying the beautiful scenery.

The next morning it was raining again, so we quickly packed our things and took off to the next destination - Slovenia.