week 1 - austrian cuisine, family visits and rainy autumn days

When life throws you a rainy day, play in the puddles!
— unknown
Facts & Figures
● 908 kilometers in the Defender
● 85505 steps by foot
Highlights
● Salzburger Nockerl in Salzburg
● Apfelstrudel by Oma
● wine tasting in Südsteiermark
Lowlights
● rainy days...

And there it was, October 3rd, 2021 - the date we planned to leave Switzerland and drive off in our Defender. And we did, with the usual delay of a few hours, but hey, what are two hours compared to the time we have planned for this trip. From now on, we won’t have deadlines and strict schedules to stick to.
We got our last coffees in our favourite coffee shop down the road from our apartment, Liv smoked her very last cigarette (new life, healthier habits - or at least that’s the idea) and then we started the engine. Unnecessary to tell you how unreal it felt to drive off, knowing we won’t come back for such a long time. Destination: Africa, next stop: Germany.


We spent our first night at a beautiful camping spot in Berchtesgaden (Germany). Since it was already the end of the season, we didn’t have trouble finding space on a campsite. Unfortunately, the warm summer nights have also passed... We parked the car and opened a bottle of a costly champagne Tom once received as a gift, but we figured the first night of our trip would be the perfect moment to drink it :) The next day we drove onto the “Rossfeld Panoramastrasse” and parked at “Ofnerboden,” from where we hiked up to the “Purtschellerhaus.” The mountain hut is built on the Austrian and German border, and you can reach it from both sides. We chose the Austrian way up, enjoyed a “Brettljausen,” “Kaspressknödel,” and a “Radler” in the sun, and walked the German way back down. There was a distillery next to the car parking spot, and we got the opportunity to taste some “Schnaps” and learn about different methods and ingredients of distilling. We then headed towards Salzburg, and when we arrived at Camping Schloss Aigen, which we chose for our sleeping spot, we found that they were just about to close; however, we got to stay the night for free. We cooked dinner and enjoyed the (foggy) view over Salzburg, where we were headed the next day.


Going to bed early when camping due to the lack of light comes with the benefit of being up early in the morning. We packed our stuff and went straight into the city for our first coffee. Ordering a coffee in Austria is not that simple as you might think. My first Cappuccino came with whipped cream and I learned, that if I would like to receive a Cappuccino with milkfoam I must order a “Melange”. We went from coffee place to coffee place and tasted different coffees (“kleiner Brauner” = similar to an espresso, “grosser Brauner” = doppio, “Verlängerter” = Cafe Creme or filter coffee, “Einspänner” = espresso with whipped cream on top). The list doesn’t end here, but our capability of drinking more caffeine and tasting more sweets (definitely recommend the Mozartkugeln and Punschkrapferl). We went to see the Salzburg Fortress, strolled through the Old Town and passed the birth place of Mozart, walked around Mirabell Palace and the beautiful gardens and went to the Bärenwirt for lunch, where we ate the famous “Backhendl” and of course “Salzburger Nockerl” for dessert. Salzburg definitely seduced us with culinary highlights!


For the night we drove to Wolfgangsee, a beautiful area a couple of hours outside of Salzburg. Unfortunately, the weather was very cloudy and cold but we still enjoyed the night directly at the lake at Camping Wolfgangsee Berau. For dinner, we walked along the lake to Strobl and we just got back in time before the rain. The next morning, we made use of the gym at the Camping Site and then drove to Judenburg, where Tom’s Oma (grandmother) lives. We got to stay in Tom’s parents apartment close-by, which was perfect, since it didn’t stop raining for 2 days straight.
The weather didn’t spoil us, but Oma Hilde did. She cooked and baked and we ate until we almost bursted: Wiener Schnitzel, Leberknödelsuppe, Apfelstrudel, Schupfnudeln, Frittatensuppe, Kürbiskernroulade - we got it all and it was delicious! We enjoyed the time together very much.


Our last stop in Austria led us to the Südsteiermark, e region famous for its wine. On our way from Judenburg to Gamlitz we stopped to see the Hundertwasserkriche, a colorful church designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser. We stayed two nights at Obstgut Ledinegg, a beautiful fruit farm with only five camping spots. The weather was not great but nevertheless we were not the only campers. While setting-up our little camp, we talked to our neighbours, another couple who headed to South Africa on a different route, two retired couples who enjoyed camping in a bit more luxurious campers but were very interested in the Defender - it was very interesting exchanging our camping experiences. Walter and Gabi who run the farm were very welcoming and even lent us their motorbike so we could quickly drive to Gamlitz to get some groceries. The next day, the sun came out again and we took the chance to go for an extended hike through the vinyards, tasting differents wines on the way, eating Jausen and enjoying the beautiful scenery.

The next morning it was raining again, so we quickly packed our things and took off to the next destination - Slovenia.

Let's get started

Preparation is everything.
— David Robinson

Taking a break and some time off to explore foreign places in the world has been on both our minds for quite some time. To drive all the way from Zurich (Switzerland) to Cape Town (South Africa) in a Land Rover Defender 110 has been Tom’s dream since his last trip to Africa. To do it together as a couple has never been on either of our minds… Love hit us, our dreams inspired us, and we started planning this journey together. What sounded like a great, spontaneous, romantic adventure required a lot of preparation, solid nerves, and some investments before we could hit the road.


Our Land Rover Defender 110 TD5

We have visited Anna and her team from 4x4 Manufaktur a bunch of times - if you own a Defender as well, you will also know how keeping it in shape is a never-ending story =). On the other hand, we do hope that choosing a Defender for our home on wheels will reward us if we need some reparation work in Africa - let’s hope we are right about this.

Anna helped us prepare the Defender and pack the essential spare parts we won’t find that easily on our trip. She checked every single screw before we took off (and plenty needed to be tightened or replaced - she even found some missing ones).


Our Driving Skills

When Tom bought the Defender back in 2019, he also attended a short 4-wheel-drive-course and gained some off-road experience afterward on his various trips around Switzerland and Corsica (France). Liv has never driven anything off-road before, and her last camping experience dates back to many younger years. She, therefore, wanted to pre-test the “Defender-lifestyle” and move on dirt roads before going all-in on this adventure. That’s why we decided to go on an Offroad-Driving-Tour with some well-experienced “Offroaders.” David from the Abenteuerfabrik led the tour through Liguria (Italy), and trust us; we received the offroad experience we were looking for =) David helped us maneuver the most challenging dirt roads without bumping into rocks and trees - we were impressed ourselves where the Defender was able to bring us. And every night, we were rewarded with fantastic sleeping spots and beautiful views to wake up to.


Essentials

Last but not least, it was not only about getting ourselves and the Defender ready for this trip but also a lot of paperwork and things to organize and think of before we could hit the road. Passports, vaccinations, visas, a carnet de passage (I didn’t even know something like this existed), insurances for ourselves and the car (good luck finding car insurance that also covers Africa), subletting our apartments (and getting rid of everything we didn’t need anymore or storing stuff away we won’t need during the trip), quitting our jobs, packing not bags but drawers and uncountable visits to camper stores to buy things we were missing - our last weeks at home were super busy and often a bit overwhelming.


See you again

To top it up, we also had to say goodbye to the best friends and families in the world, which made the last days emotional and not always easy; nevertheless, we were committed to jumping on this adventure together. And we did!

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