week 81 - 83 - Cape Town quality time, Afrikaburn and mechanics again

Coming back to Cape Town felt like coming home. After spending several weeks in this lovely city, we truly fell in love with it, but this wasn’t the only reason we returned to Cape Town. We came back for several reasons. Our initially planned trip - driving to South Africa in our Defender - was now ending, and of course, money was coming to an end as well ;) Therefore, we had to face the truth and think about going home. A few weeks back, we began to discuss different options. One, of course, was to ship the Defender back and fly home; another was to keep the car in South Africa and continue the trip later. A third one came up, which we initially never thought about. We met Toby and Martina, a Swiss couple who traveled through the Middle East and Africa in their Defender. Our traveling schedule was entirely aligned towards the end, so we thought of driving back home together along the west coast of Africa. This route is less traveled than the east coast and has its challenges. It includes transiting through many countries and therefore includes many border crossings with different entry requirements. Furthermore, these countries face different political situations; some countries are very unstable, which sadly leads to a lot of corruption. But after overlanding for more than a year and a half thorugh Africa, we also became very curious to explore the western part of it. However, it was clear to us that we would not want to drive up on our own. Being more than one car has many advantages, number one of course being safer, but also sharing the workload, for example for researching (many different rules apply to enter all these countries and they change all the time) and having a second car in case you get stuck on bad roads or if you have any other kind of problem. Traveling with someone also means spending a lot of time with them; you get little privacy when you live in a car, and it even gets less when you travel together with someone else. Therefore, it is crucial to have someone who is on the same page and someone we get along with. Even though we had never met Toby and Martina in person, it soon felt like we had known each other for a while already, after we started getting in touch to discuss the option of driving back home together. We were sure it would be a match. But as it goes, as soon as you have a plan, life will come in between to change it. Just after we agreed to go on this journey back home together and started making plans, the two called us in January to tell us that they were pregnant and expecting the baby end of August. They therefore had to make some new plans and after long long talks, they decided that Toby would drive their Defender back to Switzerland on his own together with us, and Martina would fly back to prepare everything for the baby at home. However, before Martina would leave, the four of us planned to go to Afrikaburn (a pretty famous festival in the desert of South Africa) together, to have a great ending to Martina’s trip and a great beginning to our journey back. So, meeting Toby and Martina and going to the Afrikaburn was the main reason we returned to Cape Town. Also, we wanted to go to a suitable Landy workshop in town once more and have our Defender thoroughly checked before starting this journey. Along the west coast of Africa, it is more challenging to find spare parts and Land Rover mechanics. This time, Tom wanted to be there and help with all the work on our car, so he would know better what to do if anything happened. Stefan, who runs a small Landy workshop, had time and booked us in for a few days to check on our Defender. Of course, we now also needed to replace the second-hand injector we installed in Zimbabwe to get us to Cape Town.

Since our home on wheels was now in a workshop for a few days, we needed another place to sleep. Once more, we were lucky. Shaun, Tom’s friend from Switzerland, was joining us for the Afrikaburn with his girlfriend Judith. He owns an apartment block in Cape Town and invited us to stay there for the week before the festival. Besides working on the Landy and preparing stuff for our trip back and for the Festival, we also met up with the lovely people we had met in Cape Town in the past, like my friends from the Yoga Teacher Training and Tom’s friends from his previous trip. Also, we had a little project and upgrade to our Defender going on. We found a very cool second-hand e-bike, which we could use for the Afrikaburn, but also we thought it would be very nice to have a bike to get around once we have set up our camp. Because of the roof tent, it’s always a bit tricky to go to places when you installed everything at a campsite. With the e-bike, we gain a lot of mobility. But we also needed to mount a ramp to the Defender so we would be able to bring the e-bike along on our journey. We found some very cool people in Cape Town who helped us getting a ramp and mounting it to our Defender.

After a week, the Defender and we were ready to go into the desert to Afrikaburn. This festival is organized by a worldwide community. Their biggest festival ‘Burning Man’ takes place in the U.S., and Afrikaburn is the second biggest event after this. The concept is always the same: coming together to create art, costume, performance, theme camps, music, mutant vehicles, and much, much more. All of this is based on a volunteer and gifting culture. This means you cannot buy anything at the festival. You have to bring along all the food and water and whatever else you need for the time at the festival. Tom has already been to Burning Man three times; for me, it was the first time going to a “Burn,” but it was the first Afrikaburn for both of us. We decided to join a camp because having people and a common area to chill is nice. Johnny from Wilderness also came to Afrikaburn and invited us to join him and his camp. It was a super cool bunch of people, very international; we had a lot of South Africans, a couple from Norway, two girls from Germany, and of course, Shaun, Judith and Tom, and I from Switzerland. Our camp organized a brunch everyday. Therefore, we built different groups. Our “Swiss Group” made “Rösti, Speck und Spiegelei mit Zopf und Birchermüesli” (hashbrowns, bacon, and fried eggs with a special bread and Muesli - a very Swiss breakfast) on the first day and everyone loved it. In return, we got treated to Shakshuka, Norwegian waffles, and Tacos. The festival was fantastic and hard to explain in words. Seeing what people build and produce and how creative everyone gets is amazing. Wandering around every day, there is so much to explore. At night, the whole world changes a lot again; everything lights up, there are a million LED and fairy lights and it’s hard not to get lost in the desert. We enjoyed our time and I was super happy we visited this festival.

Unfortunately, Toby and Martina couldn’t join us from the start at Afrikaburn. They realized just a few weeks before the festival that their chassis had a crack, so they had to strip their whole car down to repair the chassis and had it built together again. Otherwise, Toby could not drive the car back to Switzerland. They primarily did the whole job by themselves with some help from a workshop in Cape Town. It was incredible to see what they had managed to do in only three weeks, and luckily, they managed to come for the last four days to the Afrikaburn. We were delighted when they arrived and enjoyed the few days together to the fullest. Of course, we also wanted to contribute a little bit to the festival, so we decided to cook a fondue one night and invited people around us. It was such a cool vibe and people loved the melted Swiss cheese on a piece of bread, definitely one of the many highlights of this week :-)

After the festival, unfortunately, it was time for Martina to fly home. She and Toby drove back to Cape Town, where they had to fix some final things on their car; the 500km drive into the desert and back was quite a good test drive. Tom and I decided to spend a couple of days in the Cederberg because we love this area a lot. Back in December, Tom did a hike called the “Wolfberg Cracks” with Flo and I also wanted to do it, since it sounded amazing. We drove to a nice campsite on Monday and went on the hike early the following day. It was totally worth the slight detour!

After the hike, we drove straight to the workshop, where Toby was waiting for us. Martina had already left to the airport earlier that day. Unfortunately, Toby still had to wait for some parts until the next day, so we were allowed to camp in front of the workshop. Since we had the time and were waiting anyway, we decided to drive our Landy on the lift for a last check as well - what a good idea. We only then realized that our rear brake pads were used and the brake disc was already damaged. It definitely needed replacement. Also, our transfer case was leaking after we had just revised it a few months earlier in Cape Town at another workshop. Of course, we called them to tell them that their job hadn’t lasted long, and they offered to pay for the revision we now had to do again. It’s always costly to drive into a workshop with a Landy, but on the other hand, we were happy that we realized these things before we were somewhere in the bush where we could not fix it properly anymore. We also took the chance and stocked up on some last spare parts.

On Wednesday night, we were almost ready to hit the road, but Toby had to wait one more day to get the new suspensions that he needed. Simoné and Marcel, a couple from South Africa, who had met Toby and Martina in Kenia while traveling, invited us to stay with them for our last days in Cape Town. They have a lovely house in Camps Bay and it was amazing to spend a couple of days there before we started our journey; we spent all day Thursday and Friday driving around the city and organizing things and had two amazing last braais with friends at Simonés and Marcel’s place. We also visited their workshop, where they produced some very cool braai tongs, which they gifted us for our journey back.

On Friday afternoon, we finally hit the road to drive up to Windhoek, where we would try to organize all our visas before continuing up north. Saying goodbye to everyone and Cape Town was a bit emotional for us. Luckily, the first three days on the road together with Toby were already a lot of fun. We met another Defender-couple on the road and share our camp for one night and then continued with our two Landies up north. We had such a good vibe together, and we’re excited to be sharing this next part of our journey with him - and we are very sad that Martina cannot join us, but we’ll try our best to bring Toby back home in time together with the two Defenders and ourselves :)

week 59 - 64 - arrival in South Africa and settling down for a little while

The past three months went by in a blink of an eye, but they have been wonderful. We left our camping life and had many friends visiting us from Switzerland, and we made many new friends here in South Africa, as well, so writing this blog was not at the top of my priority list. Now I finally have time again to write, and I have to dig far back in my memory to tell you about our first weeks in the very south of Africa…

The border crossing was the shortest ever in South Africa; we got a free visa on arrival for three months and did not have to stamp our Carnet since Namibia and South Africa share a customs union. The border post in Vioolsdrift is in the middle of the desert, and the landscape stayed dry for the first few hundred kilometers in South Africa. We passed a couple of towns, but none of them seemed so appealing to spend a night in, so we pulled through to the Highlanders Campsite just before Clanwilliam, a place Tom already knew from his previous travels. It was a very long and exhausting driving day, but the owner Mike warmly welcomed us at the campsite, and we really enjoyed our first night in South Africa. Of course, we started with a proper braai as well as a wine tasting to get into the right mood :)

The next day, we had to continue because we needed to get sim cards and some groceries. The previous day was a Sunday, and everything was closed when we entered South Africa. We found everything we needed in Clanwilliam, and after a short lunch at the Rooibos Tea House, we continued into the Cederberg to the Jamaka Organic Farm & Resort. Karin, the owner, is German and was happy to greet some German-speaking guests. She and her husband own a huge area where they farm, but they also built super cool campsites with over 150(!) spots to choose from. We even could go on a 3-hours hike on their premises; it was unbelievable how big their plot of land was.

After two nights, we continued towards Stellenbosch, but not before going on another little hike, starting from the Algeria Campsite in the Cederberg to a beautiful waterfall. It was not a very long hike, but one of my favorites on this trip; once you reach the waterfall, you truly get the feeling that you have reached paradise; it was a magic spot

From there, we continued further South because we wanted to meet our friends Claudia and Florian in Stellenbosch on the last day of their honeymoon. After missing their wedding in Switzerland, it was super nice that it worked out to meet them in South Africa just before they flew home again. Therefore, we rushed southwards and spent the first night at the famous African Overlanders Campsite, a place well-known amongst Overlanders. The owner, a guy from Germany, helps anyone with shipping their vehicles in and out of Cape Town, and he also offers storage of vehicles on his premises. The place, therefore, looks more like a car storage than a campsite, but we met nice fellow overlanders there, like the Australian couple who had just arrived in South Africa at the beginning of their trip. The next day, we decided to move closer to Stellenbosch and check out another campsite at a lodge. We met Florian and Claudia the next day for lunch and went to eat at Tokara, a wine estate and amazing restaurant we can highly recommend. We enjoyed a couple of hours together, hearing all the news from back home and had a delicious meal and wine. Then, it was already time to say goodbye again, the two had to catch their flight, and we continued towards the west coast.

Before we entered Cape Town and its big city life, we wanted to check out some other nice places and campsites along the west coast. We drove north again and checked out the West Coast National Park, where we enjoyed a lovely picnic at the beach.

The night we spent at the caravan park in Langebaan, usually not our favorite camping spot, but it is right next to the famous Strandloper Restaurant, where we went for dinner and had a seafood feast (do not go there if you don’t like or eat fish and seafood, it’s all they serve). We enjoyed it a lot and went to bed with a very full belly.

The next morning, we continued north and visited Paternoster, a very charming town on the west coast. The night we spent in Tietiesbaai, where you can camp in the Nature Reserve. They have ablution blocks there, and it’s a famous spot amongst the locals for camping as well; the one night we spent there was quite busy, but it was nice to see all the South Africans enjoying the weekend.

The following day, we drove back to Cape Town and moved into a cute little apartment in Hout Bay, where I would start my Yoga Teach Training in a couple of days, and Tom wanted to join some Jiu-Jitsu classes. Our very first stop after entering the city, even before getting the keys to our new home base, however, was Table Mountain. Since South Africa and Cape Town marked the symbolic destination of our whole trip, we wanted to celebrate “reaching our goal”. We, therefore, brought a nice bottle of wine, some cheese, biltong, olives, and freshly baked bread to the top of the mountain (it was already late afternoon, so we had to opt for the cable car to go up and down) and cheered to us at the top of Cape Town. We were lucky and had a view without any clouds; it was a magical moment for us.

We then drove to Hout Bay and checked into our apartment, and it was a very weird but also nice feeling to know that we would not be moving for a while. We unpacked everything, all our clothes and everything else we had in the car - the two-bedroom apartment soon looked terribly crowded, and I kept wondering how everything of our stuff fitted into the car.

Tom, who had already spent some time in Cape Town a few years back, got in contact with some of his mates. That’s how we found out about Pangea, a festival happening in the Karoo a couple of hours outside of Cape Town. Luckily, we still got tickets and spent a fun weekend at a beautiful festival; it has been a while since we last danced, and we enjoyed our time. Of course, we had to decorate our Defender accordingly :)

The Yoga Teacher Training was a great experience as well. I chose Wellness Connection in Hout Bay because this Yoga School seemed beautiful, located in between the forest, but also they have a science-based approach of teaching, which I liked a lot. The Yoga studio was indeed very beautiful, but also our group was super nice, mostly South Africans and some other international students from Germany and France. I loved my time there, learning a lot of new things, not only about Yoga, but definitely improving my practice a lot, and making new friends.

Tom, in the meantime, went to a few Jiu-Jitsu classes, which he also enjoyed a lot until the very last lesson, where he accidentally bruised his rips. An injury which still, two months later, hurts him occasionally and is only healing very slowly. The rest of his time he spent meeting some mates, and we soon started running into people we knew from back home; Cape Town definitely is a popular winter escape destination for the Swiss. We also visited people we met along our travels, Kris and Karoline from Norway, who we met in Malawi, stayed in Cape Town as well. Ed and Mike, the guys we met in Tanzania and then later in Malawi again, invited us to their homes to meet their families. We met for sundowners with Leo and Paddy, a couple who also traveled in a Land Rover Defender and were just shortly behind us on the trip. After exchanging many messages and tips, we finally got to meet in person in Cape Town. We really enjoyed our time in this city a lot. After only a few weeks, it felt like a new home, just when it was time to say goodbye again.

At first, only for Tom, who picked up our friend Flo from Switzerland. He was the first one to arrive before all our other friends would come as well. Tom and Flo enjoyed a week out in nature in the Cederberg area while I finished the last week of my Yoga Teacher Course. The two had a blast, roaming around in nature with the Defender.

I met them again just before Christmas in Piketberg, where the three of us rented a cute little cabin and spent Christmas in between Zebras and Springboks :) For another two nights, we moved to a lovely cottage in Tulbagh, where we went for a hike and enjoyed the big pond in front of our cabin. Then, it was time to drive to Franschhoek, where we would meet the rest of our friends who arrived during the following days; we were, of course beyond excited to finally be reunited with them all.