week 81 - 83 - Cape Town quality time, Afrikaburn and mechanics again

Coming back to Cape Town felt like coming home. After spending several weeks in this lovely city, we truly fell in love with it, but this wasn’t the only reason we returned to Cape Town. We came back for several reasons. Our initially planned trip - driving to South Africa in our Defender - was now ending, and of course, money was coming to an end as well ;) Therefore, we had to face the truth and think about going home. A few weeks back, we began to discuss different options. One, of course, was to ship the Defender back and fly home; another was to keep the car in South Africa and continue the trip later. A third one came up, which we initially never thought about. We met Toby and Martina, a Swiss couple who traveled through the Middle East and Africa in their Defender. Our traveling schedule was entirely aligned towards the end, so we thought of driving back home together along the west coast of Africa. This route is less traveled than the east coast and has its challenges. It includes transiting through many countries and therefore includes many border crossings with different entry requirements. Furthermore, these countries face different political situations; some countries are very unstable, which sadly leads to a lot of corruption. But after overlanding for more than a year and a half thorugh Africa, we also became very curious to explore the western part of it. However, it was clear to us that we would not want to drive up on our own. Being more than one car has many advantages, number one of course being safer, but also sharing the workload, for example for researching (many different rules apply to enter all these countries and they change all the time) and having a second car in case you get stuck on bad roads or if you have any other kind of problem. Traveling with someone also means spending a lot of time with them; you get little privacy when you live in a car, and it even gets less when you travel together with someone else. Therefore, it is crucial to have someone who is on the same page and someone we get along with. Even though we had never met Toby and Martina in person, it soon felt like we had known each other for a while already, after we started getting in touch to discuss the option of driving back home together. We were sure it would be a match. But as it goes, as soon as you have a plan, life will come in between to change it. Just after we agreed to go on this journey back home together and started making plans, the two called us in January to tell us that they were pregnant and expecting the baby end of August. They therefore had to make some new plans and after long long talks, they decided that Toby would drive their Defender back to Switzerland on his own together with us, and Martina would fly back to prepare everything for the baby at home. However, before Martina would leave, the four of us planned to go to Afrikaburn (a pretty famous festival in the desert of South Africa) together, to have a great ending to Martina’s trip and a great beginning to our journey back. So, meeting Toby and Martina and going to the Afrikaburn was the main reason we returned to Cape Town. Also, we wanted to go to a suitable Landy workshop in town once more and have our Defender thoroughly checked before starting this journey. Along the west coast of Africa, it is more challenging to find spare parts and Land Rover mechanics. This time, Tom wanted to be there and help with all the work on our car, so he would know better what to do if anything happened. Stefan, who runs a small Landy workshop, had time and booked us in for a few days to check on our Defender. Of course, we now also needed to replace the second-hand injector we installed in Zimbabwe to get us to Cape Town.

Since our home on wheels was now in a workshop for a few days, we needed another place to sleep. Once more, we were lucky. Shaun, Tom’s friend from Switzerland, was joining us for the Afrikaburn with his girlfriend Judith. He owns an apartment block in Cape Town and invited us to stay there for the week before the festival. Besides working on the Landy and preparing stuff for our trip back and for the Festival, we also met up with the lovely people we had met in Cape Town in the past, like my friends from the Yoga Teacher Training and Tom’s friends from his previous trip. Also, we had a little project and upgrade to our Defender going on. We found a very cool second-hand e-bike, which we could use for the Afrikaburn, but also we thought it would be very nice to have a bike to get around once we have set up our camp. Because of the roof tent, it’s always a bit tricky to go to places when you installed everything at a campsite. With the e-bike, we gain a lot of mobility. But we also needed to mount a ramp to the Defender so we would be able to bring the e-bike along on our journey. We found some very cool people in Cape Town who helped us getting a ramp and mounting it to our Defender.

After a week, the Defender and we were ready to go into the desert to Afrikaburn. This festival is organized by a worldwide community. Their biggest festival ‘Burning Man’ takes place in the U.S., and Afrikaburn is the second biggest event after this. The concept is always the same: coming together to create art, costume, performance, theme camps, music, mutant vehicles, and much, much more. All of this is based on a volunteer and gifting culture. This means you cannot buy anything at the festival. You have to bring along all the food and water and whatever else you need for the time at the festival. Tom has already been to Burning Man three times; for me, it was the first time going to a “Burn,” but it was the first Afrikaburn for both of us. We decided to join a camp because having people and a common area to chill is nice. Johnny from Wilderness also came to Afrikaburn and invited us to join him and his camp. It was a super cool bunch of people, very international; we had a lot of South Africans, a couple from Norway, two girls from Germany, and of course, Shaun, Judith and Tom, and I from Switzerland. Our camp organized a brunch everyday. Therefore, we built different groups. Our “Swiss Group” made “Rösti, Speck und Spiegelei mit Zopf und Birchermüesli” (hashbrowns, bacon, and fried eggs with a special bread and Muesli - a very Swiss breakfast) on the first day and everyone loved it. In return, we got treated to Shakshuka, Norwegian waffles, and Tacos. The festival was fantastic and hard to explain in words. Seeing what people build and produce and how creative everyone gets is amazing. Wandering around every day, there is so much to explore. At night, the whole world changes a lot again; everything lights up, there are a million LED and fairy lights and it’s hard not to get lost in the desert. We enjoyed our time and I was super happy we visited this festival.

Unfortunately, Toby and Martina couldn’t join us from the start at Afrikaburn. They realized just a few weeks before the festival that their chassis had a crack, so they had to strip their whole car down to repair the chassis and had it built together again. Otherwise, Toby could not drive the car back to Switzerland. They primarily did the whole job by themselves with some help from a workshop in Cape Town. It was incredible to see what they had managed to do in only three weeks, and luckily, they managed to come for the last four days to the Afrikaburn. We were delighted when they arrived and enjoyed the few days together to the fullest. Of course, we also wanted to contribute a little bit to the festival, so we decided to cook a fondue one night and invited people around us. It was such a cool vibe and people loved the melted Swiss cheese on a piece of bread, definitely one of the many highlights of this week :-)

After the festival, unfortunately, it was time for Martina to fly home. She and Toby drove back to Cape Town, where they had to fix some final things on their car; the 500km drive into the desert and back was quite a good test drive. Tom and I decided to spend a couple of days in the Cederberg because we love this area a lot. Back in December, Tom did a hike called the “Wolfberg Cracks” with Flo and I also wanted to do it, since it sounded amazing. We drove to a nice campsite on Monday and went on the hike early the following day. It was totally worth the slight detour!

After the hike, we drove straight to the workshop, where Toby was waiting for us. Martina had already left to the airport earlier that day. Unfortunately, Toby still had to wait for some parts until the next day, so we were allowed to camp in front of the workshop. Since we had the time and were waiting anyway, we decided to drive our Landy on the lift for a last check as well - what a good idea. We only then realized that our rear brake pads were used and the brake disc was already damaged. It definitely needed replacement. Also, our transfer case was leaking after we had just revised it a few months earlier in Cape Town at another workshop. Of course, we called them to tell them that their job hadn’t lasted long, and they offered to pay for the revision we now had to do again. It’s always costly to drive into a workshop with a Landy, but on the other hand, we were happy that we realized these things before we were somewhere in the bush where we could not fix it properly anymore. We also took the chance and stocked up on some last spare parts.

On Wednesday night, we were almost ready to hit the road, but Toby had to wait one more day to get the new suspensions that he needed. Simoné and Marcel, a couple from South Africa, who had met Toby and Martina in Kenia while traveling, invited us to stay with them for our last days in Cape Town. They have a lovely house in Camps Bay and it was amazing to spend a couple of days there before we started our journey; we spent all day Thursday and Friday driving around the city and organizing things and had two amazing last braais with friends at Simonés and Marcel’s place. We also visited their workshop, where they produced some very cool braai tongs, which they gifted us for our journey back.

On Friday afternoon, we finally hit the road to drive up to Windhoek, where we would try to organize all our visas before continuing up north. Saying goodbye to everyone and Cape Town was a bit emotional for us. Luckily, the first three days on the road together with Toby were already a lot of fun. We met another Defender-couple on the road and share our camp for one night and then continued with our two Landies up north. We had such a good vibe together, and we’re excited to be sharing this next part of our journey with him - and we are very sad that Martina cannot join us, but we’ll try our best to bring Toby back home in time together with the two Defenders and ourselves :)

week 74 - 76 - exploring Eswatini, safari times and a perfect farewell to South Africa

Tom and I were a bit nervous regarding the border crossing to Eswatini after our experience at the border to Lesotho a couple of weeks earlier with our still pending visa extension application in South Africa. It turned out that our worries were unfounded; the immigration officers at the border post asked for the receipt of the pending application and stamped us out - not a problem at all. From Eswatini, I expected something similar to Lesotho, maybe because of the similar size of the two kingdoms, but the vibe after the border was actually very different to Lesotho. Eswatini was quite touristy, good tarmac roads and many signposts to show you where the next attraction was. Also the houses along the street were more modern, a lot of them with two storeys. We had already planned a nice route together with Urs and Barbara. Our first stop was at the famous Swazi Candle factory. Next to the factory there was also a restaurant, a crafts market and many other stores to buy souvenirs. At the factory, we could watch the people working there making candles and forming all kind of animals and other things with the wax.

After this first stop, we went to visit a crafts market and then stopped at a cultural village, where we learned how the people in Eswatini had lived in the earlier days. They also made a performance with some traditional dances and songs, it was a beautiful show. Our first night in Eswatini we then spent just next to the cultural village at the “Legends Backpacker”, where Tom had already stayed on his previous trip through Africa; however, this time, he wasn’t sleeping in the dorm but in our Defender :)

The next morning, we headed towards Sibebe Rock, a granite mountain in Eswatini. It is the second largest monolith in the world after the famous Uluru in Australia. Of course, we wanted to visit this place, and it was a very cool trip. On top of the enormous rock, there is a lodge. You can drive up there; the street was bumpy but not a problem for the Landcruiser of Barbara and Urs and our Defender. When we arrived at the lodge, we were amazed; it was very nice! It had a huge pool, a restaurant, a zip line, a nice bar and of course a very nice view; apparently, a new investor was putting some money into it, so everything was still quite new. We parked our cars and hiked a short trail about 30 minutes to the highest point of Sibebe Rock and took some pictures; when we returned to the car, it was already noon, and we decided to stop at the Ramblas restaurant in Mbabane, Eswatini’s capital, with a population of only 95’000. The restaurant was described to be the best in town; so we wanted to try it. It was nice, but I’m not sure if I would drive the extra mile for it, though ;)

Our next planned stop was the glass factory, another tourist attraction and cool place where we could see the workers making some beautiful glass art. The day went by quickly, and we did not have time to visit the oldest mine in the world, which is close to the factory. We, therefore, drove to Hawane Lodge to spend the night. It was a beautiful place with a very friendly owner who was originally from Uganda. He was very interested in our travels through Africa, so he joined us at the campsite and we had a lovely night around the fire.

The following day, we drove back to the mine. Especially Tom was very interested in visiting this place. We had a very friendly guide who showed us around; a part of the mine is still operating and, therefore, strictly secured, but the rest is open to the public.

From there, we drove to the Phophonye Waterfall, where we went on a short hike down to the waterfall and enjoyed lunch in the Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge’s beautiful garden. We then continued to Mbulezi National Park, where we spent one night. The road was quite wet from the rain, and we didn’t see many animals on our way to the camp. The campsite was very basic. The following day, we decided to drive straight to Hlane National Park, where we were more lucky and got to see many rhinos. We enjoyed watching them and then continued to our last stop in Eswatini - Mabuda Farm, a campsite that had been recommended to us by other travelers

At Mabuda Farm, we planned to spend a few nights and relax, after the quite busy program of the past few days. It can get exhausting and overwhelming to visit so many new places. The campsite was indeed lovely, unfortunately, we were not so lucky with the weather. Everything was wet because it had been raining quite a bit. On the bright side, they had a great coffee shop where they sold their self-grown coffee; of course, Tom and I enjoyed this place a lot. Still, after two nights, Barbara, Urs, Tom, and I decided to continue because we all had some things to do. Barbara and Urs had to drive to Richard’s Bay to receive their new Carnet de Passage, which had been sent there from Switzerland. Tom and I also wanted to get across the border to South Africa because I had some catching up to do with blog writing and the Internet in Eswatini was rather slow. Furthermore, Christian, a friend of Tom from Switzerland, called us to let us know that he was in Cape Town with another friend of his, Fabio. We told them, that we were already further east, quite a stretch away from them. The two spontaniously decided to fly to Durban, Fabio’s parents knew the owners of a private game reserve called Sensiri Plains, very close to where we were staying. They didn’t have any bookings for the next couple of days, so they invited us to spend some days there! That’s how quickly we changed our plans and instead of driving to the Hluhluwe National Park to go on some self-driving safaris, we drove to Sensiri Plains to meet Christian and Fabio and enjoy some days together.

The lodge was beautiful, we had amazing game drives every morning and also in the late afternoons together with Tim, the manager of the lodge, who is an amazing safari guide. Suzette, his wife, in the meantime spoiled us with amazing food; we were back in feasting mode ;) The rest of the time we enjoyed the beautiful lodge we had all to ourselves. The weather was hot and we mostly just sat in the pool with a glass of Suzette’s tasty Sangria.One afternoon, Tim took us to the shooting range, where he shoots his guns. He let us each have a go, definitely a first for me to shoot a pistol, I also missed the targets terribly bad, not a natural talent here ;) Tom on the other hand, did a great job!

It also turned, that Tim and Suzette were camping enthusiasts. They had already planned a short holiday in Kosi Bay for a few days after we left the Lodge. Tom and I had also planned to go there with Barbara and Urs. So after our short retreat at Sensiri Plains Lodge and catching up with the visitory from home, we first drove to Sodwana, to meet up with Barbara and Urs. The landscape and beach in Sodwana is absolutely beautiful; we explored it the next morning on foot and had the whole beach to ourselves.

Then, we continued to Kosi Bay a few kilometers further north, where we met Tim and Suzette again at the Casitas campsite, where we spent two amazing days altogether. We went on a boat trip on the three lakes and of course, the legendary braais couldn’t be missed every night together with some bottles of wine. It was a perfect ending to our time in South Africa. After four months in this beautiful country, it was time for us to leave it behind and explore another new place - Mozambique.

week 73-74 - Lesotho, Drakensberg and birthday celebrations

The happy reunion at Mamohase in Lesotho was lovely; even the rain couldn’t change our happy mood. We left the following day again via the very bumpy road and continued south. On the way, we drove through the lovely mountains of Lesotho and passed Afriski, a ski resort in Lesotho, offering a ski lift (Schlepplift, for all the Swiss here) with a 1.5km slope. But it was pretty impressive to see what they had built up here. Many chalets in a very Swiss style, even with Swiss names like “Davos” and “St. Moritz,” and a nice restaurant serving great food and coffee, also in the off-season we were in. Since February is a summer month in Lesotho, there was no snow up there, but nevertheless, it was a nice stop for lunch. We could only imagine what it looked like here in the Winter months.

After lunch, we continued further. Tom and I were in contact with Peter, a local guy who offers trips through Lesotho on a horse. Since all the locals usually move around on their horses, this seemed a great way to explore this country a bit more. Also, the weather was supposed to improve, so we were keen on a 2-day horseback riding trip. Barbara and Urs did not want to join us on a horse, but they were fine with spending a night in Lesotho’s mountains and “waiting for us” to return the next day. Peter offered them to stay for free at his home, so the two ended up camping in a wonderful and very remote place for a night, while Tom and I changed our mode of transport for two days. It was already 4 pm when we arrived at Peters, but he said it was still OK to leave, which was great because we didn’t want Barbara and Urs to have to wait for us and camp there for two nights. Eventhough it was a beautiful spot, there were no facilities, just a pit toilet behind the house and no shower or running water. Peter went to get the horses and when he still wasn’t back at 5 pm, we started to get slightly worried and question if we should still leave that day. Of course, we did not know how long it would take to reach the local village further up in the mountains, where the Tom and I together with Peter and the horses would spend the night. But then, Peter arrived with three horses, sattled and apparently ready for our adventure. Tom and I were very nervous. After all, we have no experience with horses. The last time on a horse, we had a guide with us walking in front of the horse, and when we went on a ride with Shane in Hogsback, we knew he had his horses under control. We weren’t sure what to expect here, and when Peter also seemed surprised when we told him that we weren’t experienced riders, we even got a bit more nervous… (as you can see by the look of our faces as we get on the horses! lol)

It turned out that the horses were very well-behaved. After the first hour or so, we got more and more relaxed. However, as we were going up the mountains, the sun was slowly going down, and Peter pointed out a few lights very far away on another hill, it seemed to us that it was impossible to reach this place anytime soon. Also, the trail was rather steep and slippery because of the rain they had in the past days, so eventually the trail became too slippery and Peter asked us to get off the horses so they could walk on their own, while we climbed up the very steep part of the trail. It got darker and darker as we were climbing up the mountain and just when it was almost impossible for us to see our feet, Peter told us to get back on the horses. I asked him if they could see in the dark, and Peter was very confident about their skills. Again, he was right. It was still another hour until we finally reached the village, I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face anymore, but the horses knew exactly where they were going. Probably, it was better for my nerves not to see the path we had to take; in the end, I even enjoyed looking up in the sky above us and seeing a million stars—a very special experience. When we finally arrived, we were welcomed warmly by the local family, who prepared a “rondavel” (Local hut) just for us, it was wonderful! We also got to taste a local dish for dinner and went to bed soon after, happy and tired.

Getting up the following day was spectacular; the view was breathtaking and a pleasant surprise since we couldn’t see anything the night before. Again, our host prepared a lovely breakfast for us, and after taking some pictures, we were ready to get back on our horses and ride back to Barbara, Urs, and our Defender.

This time, luck wasn’t on our side; after the first 30 minutes on the horse, it started raining. Actually, it was pouring down! Of course, we brought our rain jackets, but still, we were soaking wet. After a while, it stopped again, and the sun was back out, quite hot and intense, so everything dried quickly just before it began to pour again. We passed another very steep part of the trek, so we got off the horses for safety reasons again. Luckily, towards the end of the trip, the sun came out again, and our horses brought us safely back to Peter’s house, where Barbara and Urs were waiting for us. (As you might see, our faces looked much happier when we returned ;) )

Peter’s wife prepared some tea for us, and of course, we had lots to tell before we said our farewell to Peter and his family and continued to the famous Sani Pass together with Barbara and Urs. This pass is at the border of Lesotho and South Africa, and on top, there is the highest bar and restaurant in Africa. There is also a hotel with a campsite, so we thought it would be a great idea to spend the night up there and enjoy a few beers at the bar. When we arrived, we realized immediately that camping was not an option. The wind was blasting; I was even scarred it would swipe me off the cliff, let alone setting up our roof tent. We quickly decided to treat ourselves to a night in the hotel – it wasn’t a cheap option but t a very nice one. And, since it was my birthday the next day, it seemed ok to go in for a treat 😉 The rooms were very nice, we had our private rondavel with a fireplace inside, and of course, the hot shower was also much appreciated after our days in the more rural Lesotho. Dinner was included as well, and we had a lovely night on top of Sani Pass. When we returned to our rondavel after dinner, the fire was lit already, and they put two hot water bottles under the blanket – I slept like a baby even though the wind kept blasting all night.

Tom woke me with some tea the following day and sang “Happy Birthday.” We enjoyed Breakfast at the restaurant, even Urs and Barbara had a small present for me. I also received a clear sky and bright sunshine for my birthday, the perfect condition to drive down Sani Pass. We enjoyed the ride and stopped for a coffee at a farmstall before we arrived in Underberg, where we got to stock up on groceries.

We then continued to Khotso, a lodge, and backpackers, which was recommended to us. We planned to spend a few nights there before we went further into the Drakensberg. Barbara surprised me with a lovely Birthday Dinner, filet with a morel sauce and Tagliatelle, one of my favorite dishes. The next day, we all enjoyed being lazy. I accompanied Vera, a backpacker from the Netherlands who was staying at Khotso, on a hike around the area and got to catch up on the blog in the afternoon. Tom prepared a nice dinner and made friends with Stef, another overlander from South Africa, who had been on the road together with his wife for almost a year. However, they were taking refuge at Khotso because his wife was eight months pregnant, so they were taking a break from overlanding. Stef knew a lot about Defenders and helped us find some issues after we had heard a strange noise while driving. It turned out that our bushes were worn out again, after only 16’000km, but mostly on lousy gravel roads, especially in Namibia and Angola, we had to replace them again. A mechanic was in town, but unfortunately, he didn’t have the necessary parts. He referred us to another guy an hour’s drive away who could help us. Luckily, Kingsley, the mechanic, had all the parts required at his workshop and booked us in the next day. Before we left the next day, we decided to go tubing in the river close to the lodge. It was the perfect activity in the hot weather!

The next morning, Barbara and Urs continued already to our next planned stop in the Drakensberg, Lotheni, while Tom and I made the detour and drove to Kingsley in Boston. He was a very skilled mechanic, and after only 3 hours, our car was ready to hit the road again. We arrived in Lotheni in the early afternoon; the weather was fantastic; we enjoyed the sun and had a lovely braai with Barbara and Urs.

The following day, we were keen to do some hiking and, of course, to swim in the river. Tom and I decided on a longer route and planned with Barbara and Urs to meet later at a waterfall, where we could swim. Even though the weather seemed to change just when we left in the early morning, it stayed dry for the whole hike, and when we met Barbara and Urs at the falls, the sun was out again, and we even went for a swim in the ice cold water. We returned to the cars, ate a quick lunch, and then drove to some other pools, where Barbara wanted to try her luck with fly fishing. After a few minutes only, unfortunately, the weather changed drastically! Within minutes, thick clouds appeared, and it even started hailing. We quickly looked for shelter inside our cars and drove back to the campsite and ate dinner inside Barbara and Urs’ car, which has just enough space for the four of us. It is quite impressive how quickly the weather can change up here!

Of course, Barbara was disappointed about her fishing experience, so we wanted to give it another shot the next day. We decided to drive to Kamberg, the next valley in the Drakensberg, also famous for trout fishing. The weather, unfortunately, didn’t clear up. It was not pouring down, but it was still very wet, and thick layers of fog covered the Drakensberg. When we arrived at Kamberg, Barbara geared up in her rain clothes and tried her luck for a couple of hours while we stayed in the shelter cooking tea and coffee to keep warm. Eventually, we gave up on trout for dinner. Instead, we drove to Nottingham Road, where Tom was beyond excited to dine at the Bierfassl, an Austrian restaurant with great reviews. We tasted a Schnitzel, an Eisbein, and some Apfelstruddel, which was indeed delicious. The food and beer made up for all the rain, and after the second round of beers, we asked the restaurant manager if it was ok for us to camp in the parking lot. The camping site close by, which we called on the way, was under water. Therefore, it was impossible to camp there, and we couldn’t find another place to stay, even all  the hotels we called were fully booked. Our night in the parking lot wasn’t too bad; at least, it eventually stopped raining during the night, and the following day we drove into town and had some great coffee while our cars got a car wash. After stocking up on groceries, we were ready to go back into another valley of the Drakensberg one more time.

We drove to the Royal Natal National Park and stayed at the Mahai Campsite, a beautiful camp with excellent facilities. On the way, Tom and I had to stop at a wheel alignment shop since our steering wheel was wobbly. Apparently, this is a well-known issueafter replacing the bushes, we had the same problem the last time when we changed the bushes in Namibia. This time, we knew what to do. We found a wheel alignment shop in Bergville, a town along the way, and they balanced our wheels. Unfortunately, they could not align them as well because their system only worked for right hand drives. So we decided to continued to the Mahai Campsite; unfortunately, our steering wheel was still wobbly. On the bright side, it wasn’t raining anymore when we arrived, and we had a delicious braai just in time before it got wet again. The following day, Tom and I wanted to hike to the famous Tugela falls, the world’s highest waterfall. After some other tourists had told us that this hike included some rock climbing, Barbara and Urs decided to go on a different trail. Tom and I left early in the morning, which was a wise decision. The hike was beautiful, and only the last part included some climbing. We enjoyed the views of the waterfall and some snacks in the beautiful Tugela Gorge and then started our way back to the car. On the way, we passed along many other tourists. Apparently, we were the first ones on this day who left for this hike. Halfway on our way back, we got surprised by a massive thunderstorm. It was pouring down, and even though we had brought our rain jackets, we were soaking wet. Furthermore, I didn’t like walking around with lighting and thunder just above us. Most people we crossed paths with turned around and came back with us to return to the car; it wasn’t safe to continue the hike. I was very happy when we finally saw the parking lot, and just a few meters before we reached our car, an older couple from Belgium was sitting on the side of the path in complete shock. When we asked them what happened, they told us that the woman slipped and fell down a small waterfall; she must have fallen at least 3 meters down. Luckily, she had no big visible injuries, but her shoulder hurt terribly, and she also lost her glasses. Tom stepped into the water below the waterfall; it didn't matter anymore after we were soaked already anyway. He found the glasses, which miraculously were not broken. We helped the couple back to the car, looked for the closest hospital on our phone, and gave the lady some painkillers. They drove straight there to have her checked. Hopefully, she’s doing fine. It was so hectic we completely forgot to exchange contacts.

When we returned to the campsite, Barbara and Urs were already there. They escaped the rain on their shorter hike. Luckily, it cleared up again. After a long hot shower, we prepared dinner and even got to eat outside.

The next day, we drove towards Piet Retief, the last town, before entering Eswatini. Tom and I took a slightly different route to check out another tire alignment place on the way. There, they were able to help us and align our wheels. It was much better driving around afterward. The steering wheel wasn’t wobbly anymore. We met again with Barbara and Urs at the Waterside Campsite, where we spent a quiet night before leaving for new adventures the next day.

week 72 - some more rain, new cultures and reunions

We woke up on our second day in the Addo National Park, and it was still raining. Furthermore, we received a message from friends from Jeffrey’s Bay warning against roadblocks in the area just outside of the National Park. Unfortunately, we have heard about this happening especially in eastern South Africa. Because some people are very poor in this country and unhappy with the government leaving them with nothing, they demonstrate and sometimes block roads and even damage cars, and rob people. This warning message triggered us even more after our experiences in Angola, and we realized that maybe, we haven’t completely processed what had happened to us up there… Of course, the shitty weather also didn’t really help with getting back into our positive travel mood. Tom suggested to drive to a hostel in Hogsback, a place he knew from his previous travels. It would be a safe haven and a good place to recharge our batteries, sit out the bad weather and plan our next steps. He texted Shane, the owner of Terrakaya Backpackers, who was happy to host us and had a room for us at his beautiful eco lodge. The weather stayed bad, but the place was lovely, with very welcoming people, dogs, cats, and many horses, a perfect place to chill. Shane also recommended a coach in the area who is dealing with people’s traumas. We decided to give it a chance and meet him and talk about our Angola experience. It turned out to be helpful in overcoming the fear of bad things happening on the road. We stayed four nights at Terrakaya, and on our last day, the rain finally stopped. Shane took us on a beautiful horse ride through Hogsback, so luckily, in the end, we still got to explore this beautiful place in the sun. We cooked a traditional Potjiekos, a traditional Afrikaner dish, cooked over a fire for our last dinner together, a delicious meal and a fun experience.

With new energy, we left Hogsback again, and even though the weather forecast didn’t look amazing, we decided to stick to our intended route and drive into Lesotho. This place was also new to Tom, so we had something new to explore together for the first time in a while. We spent the last night close to the border on a small campsite, had our car cleaned, and also washed our wet and dirty clothes from the past rainy days. After this, we felt ready to hit the road again. However, an unpleasant surprise waited for us at the border… What was supposed to be a straightforward and quick border crossing didn’t go according to plan. When we wanted to exit South Africa, the immigration officer told us he couldn’t let us leave since our application to extend the South African visa, which we handed in more than two months ago, was still pending. We showed him the receipt from the application, with which we were told we could travel freely in and out of the country. We already knew that the Visa office was far behind with handling the applications; they even informed us that, most likely, we would not hear back from them before the end of our granted visa but that this wouldn’t be a problem, we would just need to show our receipt and it would be fine. Apparently, the immigration officers at the very small land border to Lesotho weren’t informed about that. The officer told us that we should wait for his manager, who would be here in 2 hours, or alternatively, we could drive back to the next town with a VFS office (e.g., a two hours drive) to handle the situation there. Knowing that they probably wouldn’t be a big help, we decided to wait. I was already devastated because I was so much looking forward to visiting Lesotho. Finally, the manager arrived, telling us the same story we had heard from his colleague: If he would let us exit South Africa, the system would kick out our pending application, resulting in an overstayed visa for us and therefore, he would have to give us an “undesired” stamp, meaning we could not return to South Africa for 5-10 years. Of course, we didn’t want this, and also, Lesotho being a landlocked country surrounded entirely by South Africa, we would have been stuck there forever… The manager, however, understood our dilemma, and he also understood that it wasn’t our fault since we applied on time, paid the extension fee, and had done everything we needed. Luckily, he was very helpful and started to make a few phone calls. We waited again patiently, and another two hours later, he called us into his office again and informed us that he would let us pass. We were allowed to exit without being marked as overstayed. We were beyond happy and entered Lesotho.

The vibe after the border was very different to South Africa; we felt like being back in east Africa. The streets were bustling, kids were waving at us when we drove by, the houses were more basic and the people wore very traditional clothes. Above all, we felt very save and welcome. We bought two sim cards just after the border and were surprised by the excellent coverage throughout the whole country! It was definitely worth buying them. Our first stop was at Mount Moorosi Chalets, a cute little lodge and campsite, run by a local guy named Telang. He was very welcoming and even offered us a Rondavel for a reduced price. Since it looked like it would actually not rain for a night, we decided to camp. We were lucky and had a dry night; even the morning remained dry, so we decided to hike up the mountain, which is a historical place in Lesotho because in the early 19th century, an important battle took place at this place against the British. Telang knew a lot about it, and it was an interesting hike up.

Can you see the waterfall behind us? yeah, we didn’t see it either …

From there, we drove to Semonkong, another Lodge with a campsite. As soon as we sat in the car, the rain started again. We texted the lodge owner, who informed us that the campsite at the Semonkong lodge was VERY wet. We decided to go there still and see what we could do. The owner, a lady originally from St. Maurice, was very friendly. She had spent a lot of time in Lesotho and told us a lot about the culture. The lawn of the campsite was indeed very wet, already the road to the lodge was super muddy, and our car looked again like we had just driven a Ralley. But luckily, they had a nice indoor kitchen and sheltered area for campers, so we decided to stay and sleep in the car - after all, our roof tent is waterproof. The following morning, the rain had stopped again, so we got up early and joined another couple for a hike to the highest waterfall in Lesotho. The weather stayed dry for our hike, however, the ground was very wet. We crossed many fields, and our feet were soon soaked. Still, we got to enjoy a breathtaking scenery; it was amazing to explore these even more remote places on foot. We enjoyed the hike, but when we finally reached the waterfall, it was hidden behind some big clouds; we literally didn’t see anything of the waterfall; we only could hear the water falling over the cliff. Thanks to our drone, we still got to take some pictures of the waterfall ;)

We hiked back to the lodge and enjoyed a hot coffee before we continued further north in our car. Our next stop was the Thaba Bosiu Cultural Center, a small museum, where we learned much about the Lesotho history and culture. Again, it was raining in the afternoon, but luckily, not very severely. We found another homestay on iOverlander, Metolong Backpackers, run by a very friendly man named Tlali. He welcomed us warmly, and because the rain picked up again, we spent the evening in a local bar close by, playing pool against the locals. When we woke up the following day, the sun was out again, and we walked down to the dam with Tlali’s trainee, a girl who studied Tourism Management in the capital city of Maseru and was here to complete a three-month internship. We were only her second guest, but she did a great job showing us around, and of course, she had lots of questions about Europe and all the places we have traveled to.

After these three rather wet days in the car on basic campsites, we looked forward to a hot shower and some shelter. All our clothes just didn’t seem to get dry anymore, it stayed damp inside the car. We asked a hotel in Hlotse, a town along our route, if they had a room and they offered us an excellent deal to spend the night. Along the way, we stopped again to visit another old cultural village with huts built into caves. The young local tour guide spoke English very well and explained much about the place’s history.

When we arrived at the hotel, we were amazed: It was a beautiful place, the rooms were clean and modern, and we enjoyed the strong hot shower and the comfortable bed a lot. We wanted to eat at the small restaurant but forgot to tell them when we checked in. When we walked to the restaurant around 8 pm, everything was closed already. So we returned to our room and cooked a small dinner on our gas stove just in front of the room :D

We woke up excited the following day: today, we would meet again with Barbara and Urs, our fellow Swiss overlanders with whom we had spent a fantastic time in Zambia and Botswana. They were back in Africa after a visit back home, and we had made plans to travel together again. We met them at a campsite called Mamohase, about an hour away. En route, we stopped at a car wash (yes again, the muddy roads kept our car very dirty) and at a tourist site, where we could see dinosaur footprints. Unfortunately, half of them were underwater because the river was very high. Nevertheless, we got to see two of them, and the size was indeed very impressive.

Mamohase was another locally-run campsite with a lovely view. The sun was shining when we arrived, and Barbara and Urs were already waiting for us. We sat together, and of course, we had plenty to tell each other. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t stay dry, soon again some clouds appeared, and we had to move our gathering under some shelter. The lodge owners, three cousins, were very helpful and brought some dry wood, so we could still make a braai. It felt like no time had passed since we last saw the two; we were excited to hit the road together again for some weeks.

week 71 - 72 - along the Garden Route with our friends Dylan and Flurina

After almost three months, which we spent in the Western Cape and mostly in the Cape Town area, it was time to move back into our Defender and continue our trip. For the first bit, our friends Flurina and Dylan joined us. They flew to Cape Town and after rescuing us by bringing the right Diesel filter with them, the Defender was finally ready to hit the road again. We enjoyed one last dinner together in Cape Town and left towards the Garden Route. Flu and Dyli had a rental car and stayed in guesthouses and Tom and I went back to camping. Our first stop was Stellenbosch - of course, we had to enjoy a wine-tasting tour together with the two. We opted for some different vineyards this time, our first stop was J.C.Roux, where we tasted some bubbles, and then we drove to Babylonstoren, where this time, we had some more time to visit the wine museum and taste their selection of wine as well as the nice cheese and meat platters they offer. We took a stroll through the beautiful gardens and returned to Stellenbosch, where we ate dinner at Post & Pepper, a fabulous restaurant we can definitely recommend as well. Flu and Dyli slept in a nice little guest house and Tom and I stayed on a beautiful campsite called Beef’n Liki, which just recently opened. We had lovely company, a couple from South Africa, who were very enthusiastic about overlanding as well. It was nice chatting to them, and getting excited about many palces we haven’t seen so far.

Our first stop along the Garden Route was Wilderness, quite a long drive away from Stellenbosch. We agreed with Dyli and Flu to take Route 62 and drive inland instead of along the coast, so Tom and I would see something else than a couple of weeks ago, when we were driving with our other friends. Of course, we had to stop at the legendary Ronnie’s Sex Shop, a bar along the way and a tourist hot spot. Ronnie, the owner, intended to open up a little shop to sell fruits and vegetables, but his friends played a joke and changed the writing at the shop from “Ronnie’s Shop” to “Ronnie’s Sex Shop”. This turned out to be excellent unintended marketing; a lot of curious people were stopping at the shop. He had to explain the story and usually handed out a beer; that’s how he finally came up with the idea to open a bar. Today, almost everyone stops at his bar to write their name on the wall and drink a beer with Ronnie.

Up next was Oudtshoorn, where we wanted to visit some ostriches. We were running a bit late but were still lucky and had the chance to feed the ostriches at the Highgate Ostrich Farm - it was quite scary to stand next to the fence with your back facing the fence, waiting until these huge birds came from behind to pick their food out of a bucket we were holding. The force they have is unbelievable! But it was a fun experience. Of course, we also bought some ostrich fillets and an ostrich egg, which we wanted to make for breakfast the next day.

We arrived in wilderness a bit later, where Jonny, one of Tom’s old friends who we met a couple of times while we were in South Africa, organized a little braai for us at a very beautiful campsite called Wildfarm Backpackers. Flu und Dyli got to experience a very South African braai with the most amazing view - the sunset from the campsite was amazing and we had a blast together with Jonny’s friends, cooking the ostrich fillets on the fire.

Since we were in Wilderness again, we took Flu and Dyli to the cool waterfall hike which Tom and I had done already, but since we really enjoyed it a lot, we were very keen to do it one more time. After a refreshing dip in the river (actually, Dyli was the only one who jumped in) we had a late breakfast at a coffee place and drove to Robberg Nature Reserve, to go for another little hike around the peninsula. We were all pretty exhausted after all the hiking, so Flu and Dyli went to check into their hotel in Nature’s Valley to take a small nap before dinner, and Tom and I checked in at the campsite close by called the Arch. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the most beautiful of campsites and there were a ton of mosquitos, so instead of taking a nap, we went next door to Enrico’s Pizzeria, and hung out there. Dylan joined us later for dinner, while Flu stayed at the hotel because, unfortunately, she wasn’t feeling very well.

The next day, the three of us drove to Stormsrivier’s Mouth, another Nature Reserve, where we went on a small hike. Flu stayed home to fully recover, luckily, she was already feeling much better.

Tom and I decided to already continue to Jeffrey’s Bay, our next and last stop together, while Flu and Dyle enjoyed there very nice hotel in Nature’s Valley for one more night. We camped at the Island Vibes Hostel for one night and went to the Mexcian, a restaurant at which Tom used to play music a couple of times the last time he was here and therefore knew the owners well.

The following day, Dyli and Flu joined us in Jeffrey’s Bay and together we moved into a very nice Airbnb to spend the last two days altogether. Dyli and I decided that we wanted to give it a shot and rent a surfboard to try and catch some waves - no better place in South Africa than Jeffrey’s Bay. Luckily, we also had the best possible teacher at hand - another Dylan and professional surfer, who Tom and I met a few weeks earlier in Cape Town, happened to be in town as well and he was very happy to take us out and push us into a few waves. Also, Flurina tried to catch some waves for her very first time, Tom, unfortunately, had to pass since his bruised rips were still not fully recovered.

Time flew by again, and we had to say goodbye to our friends after these few days well spent together. Flu and Dyli were driving back to Cape Town and Tom and I continued east this time. We drove to Bergrivier, a private small private nature reserve with a beautiful campsite, where we intended to spend two nights and plan our further trip. Little did we know that we would be stuck in the rain for quite a while. Just when we were cooking dinner that night, a huge thunderstorm appeared and we quickly had to move our cooking and eating under the shelter they luckily provided at the campsite. We thought this would pass quickly, just like all the other times we experienced rain and thunderstorms along our trip. But now, it was like we had passed through a magic curtain when leaving Jeffrey’s Bay, the rain didn’t stop anymore. We checked the weather forecasts but there was no place close which seemed to be more dry in the next couple of days.

We hoped for the best and stuck to our plan, after all, you cannot change the weather: our next stop was Addo Elephant National Park, a quite famous and big national park famous to do a safari. It has been a while, since we last saw the big five, but the weather was not very promising. However, the drive through the park turned out more interesting than I would have imagined. We saw many elephants, they seemed to enjoy the rain a lot, and some other funny creatures we have never seen before, like for example, a giant snail that crossed the road. The campsite was ok, we even could do some laundry, but we weren’t sure where we wanted to drive to the next day. We decided to make plans in the morning and went to bed.

week 65 - 70 - having a blast with our FRIENDS <3

Tom, Flo and I arrived in Franschhoek the day after Chrismas and checked in to the beautiful mansion we would stay at with all our friends who came to South Africa to see us. The first to arrive was Nader, one of Tom’s oldest and best friends and shortly after Kate and Jenny arrived, two of my closest friends from back home. Also Angelo joined us a bit later that day, another very close friend of Tom. We had a happy reunion and celebrated with a delicious dinner out in town. The next day, Bettina and Nathalie arrived and last but not least, Timo, my brother, made his way to us as well. We enjoyed the company, the beautiful house, and all the fantastic food in and around Franschhoek. You do not have to look far to find excellent restaurants in this area, so we went to many unique places - fine dining at its best.

For New Year’s Eve, we decided to stay “home” and cook ourselves since most of the restaurants only offered very fancy and expensive pre-set NYE-Dinners, and we thought it would be more fun to spend the day in and around the house, cooking together and having a blast. Everyone went beyond themselves, and we enjoyed a 5-star dinner with fantastic wine. Of course, we did celebrate not only the New Year but also Tom’s birthday on the 31st; I even baked him the long-promised birthday cake ;) We had a great party day and night but getting older has its disadvantages as well… we all needed a whole day to recover, luckily, we had the perfect place to chill and hang out all day long and to cool off in the pond in front of the house.

The following day, we were ready again to go on a wine-tasting tour. We rented a driver and a bus and visited many different vineyards, like the famous Babylonstoren, Chamonix, Haute Cabrière, and the Boschendal Wine Estate.

The second week, we spent all together in Cape Town, where we rented a big house in Camps Bay. It was the perfect place to do many trips in and around this amazing city. Of course, we visited the Cape of Good Hope, Simon’s Town, and the penguins, Muizenberg, we climbed Table Mountain (we took the route starting from the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, which I can highly recommend), we also hiked Lions Head for sunrise, meaning we started at 4 am in the dark with our head torches to reach the summit in time before dawn, which was a very cool experience. Of course, we also “tested” lots of the fabulous restaurants Cape Town has to offer, we were not disappointed once, and I’m pretty sure all of us were carrying one or two extra kilos after this trip ;) The cuisine in South Africa does not disappoint, and with the current exchange rate, it was quite affordable for us, too.

Our group even grew bigger, since Jenny’s mum and her whole family came to South Africa, as well. She was celebrating her 70th Birthday and wanted to escape the cold in Switzerland, that’s why she decided to join Jenny and us partly and fly to South Africa as well for a couple of weeks. On her birthday, she invited us to spend a day at the wine estate Vergelegen, where we enjoyed a fantastic picnic deluxe in the park.

After these first two weeks together with our friends, it was time for some of them to return to work. With a smaller group, including my brother Timo, Kate, Flo, and Nathalie, and of course Tom and I, we left Cape Town and drove east to explore some places along the famous Garden Route. Our first stop was in the Hoop Nature Reserve, a beautiful place well worth a visit if you like South African nature with the dunes and the ocean. Our next stop was in Knysna, where we spent two nights in a cool house on Thesen Island. On the way, we also stopped in Wilderness and did a fun hike up to a waterfall. And our last stop in Plettenberg, we met Jenny and her family again. We enjoyed a lovely dinner at Barrington’s together. The next and last day together we spent at the beach and for dinner we had a little pizza-party at our Airbnb place, a great and fun way to end this trip.

Very early the next morning, we had to leave to bring Timo and Flo to the airport in Cape Town. Nathalie continued her trip further east, and Jenny, Kate, Tom, and I had one last week to look forward to together. We booked a lovely place in Misty Cliffs, an absolutely stunning home south of Cape Town. Kate and Jenny were working remotely from there, and Tom and I used the time to plan the rest of our trip, it was after all, time to start thinking about how we will get home and what we want to do when we got there… but that is a topic for another blog:) One last highlight in our final week was the lunch at the Chef’s Warehouse Tintswalo, where Tom made a reservation for the 4 of us about three months in advance. This restaurant is very famous and always fully booked, so we were lucky that we had the chance to go there. The food was amazing and we spotted many dolphins from the lovely terrace during our meal, a beautiful experience.

Like all the others, also this week went by very fast, and it was time to say goodbye. Tom and I had brought our Defender to the mechanic shop for a big service at the beginning of this week, and we also needed to replace our suspensions. The plan was to pick up the car the same day Kate and Jenny were leaving again, but it didn’t go according to our plan. We were thrown back into our African Hakuna Matata lifestyle faster than we had imagined and needed to come up with a new plan. Alex, the mechanic from Pon Steyn, where our Defender was staying, told us he needed at least another four days until he was done. Tom and I, however, were very lucky. For the first two nights, the Airbnb host of the amazing house we were staying at offered us to stay for a bargain, which was a no-brainer, we, of course, accepted his offer. In the following days, Jenny’s parents, who still stayed in Camps Bay, offered us to stay at their apartment. They had an extra bedroom they didn’t use and welcomed us to their place. Cape Town had us back, and we made the most of this week by enjoying the city one last time, seeing some of the people we met, and of course, we also spent a lot of time with Beatrice and Marcel, our kind hosts. Together we visited the Meerlust wine estate, my absolute favorite winemaker in South Africa, not just because of the name, and we also went on a horse ride along Long Beach; it was Tom’s first time on a horse! :)

We had one last surprise waiting for us. After four days, Alex called us to inform us that the car was finished and ready. We were delighted and made plans to pick up the Defender the next day. On the phone, Tom asked if they had also replaced our second diesel filter when they had done the service. It is rare to have two filters, so we asked. Alex told us they hadn’t, but he would do it immediately. It’s only a tiny thing to do and takes 20 minutes tops. A couple of hours later, he called us again with terrible news. They had taken off the filter, during which process they made a huge hole, so it was useless, which wouldn’t have been a problem, only that they realized afterward that they did not have a replacement. They started looking all over Cape Town in spare parts shops and other mechanic shops, but it was impossible to find such a filter anywhere in South Africa. We asked Anna, our mechanic from back home if we could drive around without it, but she strongly advised against it. So we stood again without our Defender, but we were incredibly lucky. For one, we had our last two friends who came for a short visit to South Africa. Their flight was in two days, so Anna sent them the filter we needed, so they could take it with them and bring it to us. For two, Beatrice and Marcel were also staying just until the day we could pick up the filter and get it to Pon Steyn, the mechanic shop, so we did not have to look for a new accommodation after all. Luckily, it all worked out in the end, and we had our Defender back, ready to continue our African road trip.

week 59 - 64 - arrival in South Africa and settling down for a little while

The past three months went by in a blink of an eye, but they have been wonderful. We left our camping life and had many friends visiting us from Switzerland, and we made many new friends here in South Africa, as well, so writing this blog was not at the top of my priority list. Now I finally have time again to write, and I have to dig far back in my memory to tell you about our first weeks in the very south of Africa…

The border crossing was the shortest ever in South Africa; we got a free visa on arrival for three months and did not have to stamp our Carnet since Namibia and South Africa share a customs union. The border post in Vioolsdrift is in the middle of the desert, and the landscape stayed dry for the first few hundred kilometers in South Africa. We passed a couple of towns, but none of them seemed so appealing to spend a night in, so we pulled through to the Highlanders Campsite just before Clanwilliam, a place Tom already knew from his previous travels. It was a very long and exhausting driving day, but the owner Mike warmly welcomed us at the campsite, and we really enjoyed our first night in South Africa. Of course, we started with a proper braai as well as a wine tasting to get into the right mood :)

The next day, we had to continue because we needed to get sim cards and some groceries. The previous day was a Sunday, and everything was closed when we entered South Africa. We found everything we needed in Clanwilliam, and after a short lunch at the Rooibos Tea House, we continued into the Cederberg to the Jamaka Organic Farm & Resort. Karin, the owner, is German and was happy to greet some German-speaking guests. She and her husband own a huge area where they farm, but they also built super cool campsites with over 150(!) spots to choose from. We even could go on a 3-hours hike on their premises; it was unbelievable how big their plot of land was.

After two nights, we continued towards Stellenbosch, but not before going on another little hike, starting from the Algeria Campsite in the Cederberg to a beautiful waterfall. It was not a very long hike, but one of my favorites on this trip; once you reach the waterfall, you truly get the feeling that you have reached paradise; it was a magic spot

From there, we continued further South because we wanted to meet our friends Claudia and Florian in Stellenbosch on the last day of their honeymoon. After missing their wedding in Switzerland, it was super nice that it worked out to meet them in South Africa just before they flew home again. Therefore, we rushed southwards and spent the first night at the famous African Overlanders Campsite, a place well-known amongst Overlanders. The owner, a guy from Germany, helps anyone with shipping their vehicles in and out of Cape Town, and he also offers storage of vehicles on his premises. The place, therefore, looks more like a car storage than a campsite, but we met nice fellow overlanders there, like the Australian couple who had just arrived in South Africa at the beginning of their trip. The next day, we decided to move closer to Stellenbosch and check out another campsite at a lodge. We met Florian and Claudia the next day for lunch and went to eat at Tokara, a wine estate and amazing restaurant we can highly recommend. We enjoyed a couple of hours together, hearing all the news from back home and had a delicious meal and wine. Then, it was already time to say goodbye again, the two had to catch their flight, and we continued towards the west coast.

Before we entered Cape Town and its big city life, we wanted to check out some other nice places and campsites along the west coast. We drove north again and checked out the West Coast National Park, where we enjoyed a lovely picnic at the beach.

The night we spent at the caravan park in Langebaan, usually not our favorite camping spot, but it is right next to the famous Strandloper Restaurant, where we went for dinner and had a seafood feast (do not go there if you don’t like or eat fish and seafood, it’s all they serve). We enjoyed it a lot and went to bed with a very full belly.

The next morning, we continued north and visited Paternoster, a very charming town on the west coast. The night we spent in Tietiesbaai, where you can camp in the Nature Reserve. They have ablution blocks there, and it’s a famous spot amongst the locals for camping as well; the one night we spent there was quite busy, but it was nice to see all the South Africans enjoying the weekend.

The following day, we drove back to Cape Town and moved into a cute little apartment in Hout Bay, where I would start my Yoga Teach Training in a couple of days, and Tom wanted to join some Jiu-Jitsu classes. Our very first stop after entering the city, even before getting the keys to our new home base, however, was Table Mountain. Since South Africa and Cape Town marked the symbolic destination of our whole trip, we wanted to celebrate “reaching our goal”. We, therefore, brought a nice bottle of wine, some cheese, biltong, olives, and freshly baked bread to the top of the mountain (it was already late afternoon, so we had to opt for the cable car to go up and down) and cheered to us at the top of Cape Town. We were lucky and had a view without any clouds; it was a magical moment for us.

We then drove to Hout Bay and checked into our apartment, and it was a very weird but also nice feeling to know that we would not be moving for a while. We unpacked everything, all our clothes and everything else we had in the car - the two-bedroom apartment soon looked terribly crowded, and I kept wondering how everything of our stuff fitted into the car.

Tom, who had already spent some time in Cape Town a few years back, got in contact with some of his mates. That’s how we found out about Pangea, a festival happening in the Karoo a couple of hours outside of Cape Town. Luckily, we still got tickets and spent a fun weekend at a beautiful festival; it has been a while since we last danced, and we enjoyed our time. Of course, we had to decorate our Defender accordingly :)

The Yoga Teacher Training was a great experience as well. I chose Wellness Connection in Hout Bay because this Yoga School seemed beautiful, located in between the forest, but also they have a science-based approach of teaching, which I liked a lot. The Yoga studio was indeed very beautiful, but also our group was super nice, mostly South Africans and some other international students from Germany and France. I loved my time there, learning a lot of new things, not only about Yoga, but definitely improving my practice a lot, and making new friends.

Tom, in the meantime, went to a few Jiu-Jitsu classes, which he also enjoyed a lot until the very last lesson, where he accidentally bruised his rips. An injury which still, two months later, hurts him occasionally and is only healing very slowly. The rest of his time he spent meeting some mates, and we soon started running into people we knew from back home; Cape Town definitely is a popular winter escape destination for the Swiss. We also visited people we met along our travels, Kris and Karoline from Norway, who we met in Malawi, stayed in Cape Town as well. Ed and Mike, the guys we met in Tanzania and then later in Malawi again, invited us to their homes to meet their families. We met for sundowners with Leo and Paddy, a couple who also traveled in a Land Rover Defender and were just shortly behind us on the trip. After exchanging many messages and tips, we finally got to meet in person in Cape Town. We really enjoyed our time in this city a lot. After only a few weeks, it felt like a new home, just when it was time to say goodbye again.

At first, only for Tom, who picked up our friend Flo from Switzerland. He was the first one to arrive before all our other friends would come as well. Tom and Flo enjoyed a week out in nature in the Cederberg area while I finished the last week of my Yoga Teacher Course. The two had a blast, roaming around in nature with the Defender.

I met them again just before Christmas in Piketberg, where the three of us rented a cute little cabin and spent Christmas in between Zebras and Springboks :) For another two nights, we moved to a lovely cottage in Tulbagh, where we went for a hike and enjoyed the big pond in front of our cabin. Then, it was time to drive to Franschhoek, where we would meet the rest of our friends who arrived during the following days; we were, of course beyond excited to finally be reunited with them all.

week 57 - 58 - another beautiful short trip through Namibia

Since we had more time at our hands than initially thought, we decided, to sleep another night at the Piscas Hotel, so we could spend one full day making new plans and figuring out, where we wanted to go and what we wanted to do in the next 8 weeks until our friends would arrive in Cape Town. We checked out “Work Away”-possibilities, a platform where you can find jobs around the world, mostly on a “work in return for food and accomodation”-basis. We thought it could be a nice change to work and have some kind of a daily routine and stay at one spot for a change (funny what you miss when traveling for so long). Another option could have been to take a longer route and drive through the Transfrontier National Park in Botswana and South Africa. Finally, I also digged into Yoga Teacher Trainings in southern Africa, something that has been on my bucketlist for a long time. Driving through Botswana soon fell of the list, due to the rainy season and terrible roads this route would have included - everyone we spoke to advised us against it at this time of the year. We did find a very cool place for a “Work Away Experience” on a wine farm and lodge owned by a Swiss/South African family. On a short phone call with the owners, we found out that they were just starting to produce wine for the first time and, therefore will have some experts on their farm, who teach them how to do it. They invited us to join them for that process, because we told them we would be very interested in learning how to produce wine. However, the wine-producing season will only start end of February/ beginning of March. So that was definitely something we were interested in doing, but for now, we needed to look for something else. Finally, I stumbled across a Yoga Teacher Training Course in Cape Town, starting at the beginning of December, and ending just a couple of days before our friends would arrive. After talking to the teacher, I had a really good feeling about the school. Tom and I discussed our options and he also looked up things he could do in Cape Town. He found a Jiu Jitsu school very close by, something he had been interested in doing for a while, so we decided to move out of the car for a little bit and sign ourselves in for the courses. After so many different places we had visited and being on the go all the time, it felt good to choose one place and settle down for a little bit. We were both very excited about our new plans, but we still had a couple of weeks left until we had to be in Cape Town, so we decided to drive into the Caprivi Belt, a region of Namibia, we hadn’t seen so far.

We heard many good things about a Lodge called Riverdance, which is run by a Swiss couple, and we, therefore definitely wanted to check it out. When we called to ask if they had space, unfortunately, they informed us that they were fully booked on the campsite until the next week. Also, their rooms were booked but they had one capacity a night before they had availability on the campsite again, so Chris, the very friendly owner, offered us a big discount on the room rate for one night and to reserve a campsite for some additional nights. We didn’t have to think twice and agreed to this amazing deal. We still had three nights to spend somewhere else before we could go to the Riverdance Lodge., so we checked our travel app “iOverlander” and found many nice places along the way, some people who left reviews at places were even overlanders we met along the road, so we decided to make the first stop at Taranga Safari Lodge. We weren’t disappointed, it was a very luxurious campsite with everything we could ask for and more. They also had a cool bar built on the river, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. The next day, we continued and checked out another promising place along our route, called Okacuito River Camp. On the way, we stopped in Rundu to get some groceries and were surprised by the big size of this town and all its shops and restaurants.

We arrived at Okacuito and were welcomed by the owner himself, who showed us where we could camp. All the campsites had a private veranda overlooking the river, and a kitchen with a huge fridge and freezer, it was almost like having a private house. We appreciated the shelter even more, when it shortly after started to rain like crazy. A big thunderstorm hit us and all we could do was wait and sit it out, but at least, we had a roof over our heads.

We spent two nights at Okacuito and on our second night, the owner walked up to our campsite and invited us to join him on a free sunset cruise with some other customers from the lodge. Tom also got to try his luck with fishing; unfortunately, he didn’t catch anything but a hangover for the next morning, after all the beers, wine and even rum we ended up drinking with the owner and his mother, who seemed very happy to have some nice company. Also their dog seemed to like us a lot, he was sticking around our campsite all day long.

The next day, we left and continued to the Riverdance Lodge, which was actually very close. Of course, after hearing so many great things about this lodge, we expected something nice, but what we found was beyond all our expectations. Especially the room we checked into, since we “couldn’t” spend our first night on the campsite, was very luxurious and just beautifully built into trees with huge windows overlooking the river. Dinner and breakfast were also included in our discounted rate and this as well exceeded all our expectations. We were in (food)heaven and really enjoyed this treat a lot. But also the remaining three days that we spent on the campsite were great. The four campsites all have their private ablutions and overlook the river. We joined a Yoga class and also booked a massage and pampered ourselves at this lovely lodge for a few days.

From the Riverdance Lodge, we started our long drive towards Cape Town, of course, with a few stops in between. Our first night along the way we spent at Otavi Wine Estate, one of the few vineyards in Namibia, also run by a Swiss-Namibian family. Of course, we needed to taste their wine, but we were in great company. We met Caro and Wolfgang from Germany on the campsite, who also quit their jobs back home but only had started their travels in Africa. We got along super well and it was nice to talk about our future travel plans. We cooked a nice dinner all together that went well with a few bottles of the Nambian wine called “Katholischer”, which they produce at Otavi :)

From Otavi we directly drove to Windhoek, back to the Urban Camp, where we started our Nambian adventure together with my parents a few weeks ago. It was strange to be back at the same place and thinking about all the things we experienced in the meantime… Soo many amazing and a few bad memories, it all felt like at least half a year must have passed since we started our Namibian road trip. These are the moments when we sometime can’t wrap our heads around how much is happening in our lives every day, all the places we see and people we meet, it is truly amazing. This time, we only spent one day in Windhoek but we were very efficient. We went back to Paco Engineering, where they made us an adapter for our gas bottle, so we would not have to run around the next time to get our gas for cooking. Tom also went to the barber shop, we got some groceries and went to the customs office to stamp our new Carnet de Passage, the customs paper for the car, which my parents had brought with them. We were a bit worried if this would work, since we heard many different stories about whether it was necessary to leave the South African Customs Union to “activate” a new Carnet, but it was a super easy and straight forward process, the customs officer only wanted to see our car and check the chassis number and then stamped our new Carnet. As a last stop, we went to a weapon shop where we got ourselves a couple of pepper sprays, just in case… When we had everything we needed, we left Windhoek again, but it was already around 3 pm, so we decided to drive to a campsite in the Kalahari, close to Marienthal. We slept at the Bagatelle Kalahari Lodge, where we spent a windy but beautiful night. In the morning, their horses came to greet us. Also, a peacock was casually walking around on their premises.

We continued towards the border and just shortly after we had left the Bagatelle Lodge, there was a Toyota on the side of the road that obviously had broken down. The driver waived at us and we stopped to see what happened. He asked us if we could pull him to the next town. We agreed but we were very suspicious. After what happened in Angola and also hearing some stories about people who got robbed or even worse by people faking car breakdowns, this didn’t feel comfortable at all. The guy and his son tied their car to ours and we started driving and, our minds going a bit crazy, we became more and more worried if we did the right thing by stopping and helping them, which felt terrible as well because of course, we wanted to help people who needed it. Still, we were just worried if we were helping the right people here. But the car was attached already, and there was nothing we could do. When we finally arrived at the tarmac road, from where the guy could get help again, we stopped the car. We decided that Tom stayed in the Defender behind the steering wheel, ready to drive, while I took one of the pepper sprays into my pockets and went out to help the guys untie their car. They were very thankful and probably thought that we were acting very strange, with Tom staying in the car and me keeping my distance from them. But in the end, after we left and they thanked us several times, we were happy that we could help them, and it was also nice to gain some trust back into humanity. At the same time, we also agreed never to stop in a situation like this once we entered South Africa. The stories we heard from there were just terrible sometimes.

We arrived at the White House Lodge just before sunset. It was another windy night, but we enjoyed the last views of the amazing Nambian landscapes a lot.