week 37 - 39 - making new friends and great memories in a place that feels like home

In Kigali, we shared an apartment at the New Impala Hotel for three nights with Thomas from Belgium, until he had to leave again - his Africa adventure of 6 months was already coming to an end :( But we made the best out of the few days we had left together and went shopping for souvenirs, sightseeing in the city and enjoyed lots of amazing food, drinks, and of course the company. For the last night, we gathered some of the people we met along our travels who were also staying in Kigali, and we had an entertaining party night out with a big group - it was a lot of fun (minus the hangover the next day).

After Thomas had left, we moved into another hotel in a different part of the city to enjoy some more days of Kigali. Aimable, a Defender Lover we met in Kibuye at the lake because he saw us camping in the Defender, was also in Kigali and invited us to meet his friends. He introduced us to Patrick, a professional basketball player, Matthias, the owner of our favorite coffee place in Kigali, and some other friends. We had many fun nights out together. They showed us their favorite spots in the city, which was a great way to explore Kigali and get to know the Rwandese culture. When we told them about our continuous plans to drive to Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania, Aimable and Patrick decided to join us for a week. However, they had some work to finish first, so Tom and I decided to make another small tour through Rwanda in the meantime.

We drove north to the Twin Lakes and spent two nights on a nice campsite directly at the lake with a fantastic view. Then we headed again towards Lake Kivu, where Aimable runs a nice hotel, the Kivu Lodge. He had some groups of tourists there for the weekend, so he invited us to come and join him. We were allowed to camp in the parking and invited to a birthday party on Aimable’s houseboat on the lake. That’s how we met Syssie and Maurice, a couple from Kigali, some of their friends and Pitchou from DR Congo, and Manu, a Swiss guy from Zurich (small world once more!) who is in Rwanda often for business. We had such a great time on the boat; it was a big party! We were invited to join another group of guests at Kivu Lodge for dinner. They were also celebrating a birthday, five couples from Rwanda, and they welcomed us as if we were one of their longtime friends. Tom had to catch up on some sleep and went to bed early. At the same time, I stayed and learned about these lovely people's lives, many of whom lived abroad during the terrible time of the genocide, but now they all have come back to Rwanda and built up a life here - I was once more impressed by the people and how they have overcome and dealt with their past. When I told Tom the next day about the night, we promised to take an example of these people’s open minds and hearts; it’s sometimes overwhelming how welcoming they are!

After this fun weekend at Kivu Lodge, we drove back to Kibuye, where Aimable is renovating some bungalows directly at the lake. He invited us to stay there for free, and he took us out for dinners and even on a trip to an island with his houseboat, where he plans to build up a glamping campsite in the future. On the way back, we passed Napoleon Island, home to thousands of bats. One of the crew members went on the island to wake them up, and we had a spectacular view of all these bats circling the island and our boat! We enjoyed the days back at our lovely Lake Kivu, where we already fell in love the first time we were there. Aimable also showed us some beautiful places and a plot for sale, in case we would want to buy something here. But first, we’ll have to finish our trip and drive to South Africa, but building something in Rwanda could be an option for when our journey is over. In no other country we have met so many lovely people and places, and it truly felt like a home away from home. Tom and I have had many talks about the future, what to do when this trip is over, or even things we could do during the journey, like working somewhere and staying for a bit longer. But for now, we will continue with the trip so we can meet my parents in Namibia in September and spend Christmas and New Year’s in South Africa with some friends.

Together with Aimable, we drove back to Kigali after a few days at the lake to prepare for the upcoming trip to Tanzania. Unfortunately, Aimable had identified a problem with his Defender, so he had to call the mechanic to fix it before we could leave. Luckily, Aimable knows the best guy in town to work on Defenders; he also asked him to check our car and tighten all the screws that had become loose while driving all the bumpy offroad tracks. Luckily, our Defender is still in great shape; we only had to refill some engine oil and were good to go again.

Our days back in Kigali were a lot of fun. We met again for drinks with the “Lake Kivu Birthday gang” and spent another night at Rimera with Patrick and his friends; there is a car-free pub street, a nice place to spend an evening. Matthias, the coffee shop owner, invited us to stay at his house for free while he was on a business trip in Europe. Once more, we experienced generous hospitality in Rwanda. Patrick invited us to his place for brunch and mimosas and to meet his wife and kids, and another night, we all went out to the party mile in Kigali and hopped from bar to bar (and Tom hopped to a hairdresser in between to get a shave :D). Our last night in Kigali we spent at our favorite Indian restaurant with Patrick and his wife Rosie as well as Aimable and his wife and some other friends of theirs; we really could have stayed in Rwanda for much, much longer; it almost felt like we live there after making so many friends and having plans and invitations all the time. But for Tom and myself, it was time to move on, and unfortunately, Patrick and Aimable had work coming up, which they couldn’t postpone, so they could not join us on a trip to Tanzania. But we enjoyed the time we had together so much, and I’m sure our paths will cross again - we have left a small piece of our heart in Rwanda, and knowing that we have so many lovely people there we can visit, I am sure we will be back again.

Before leaving Rwanda, we stocked up our fridge with the amazing fresh bread, homemade cheese, and incredible meat Kigali has to offer. Ahead of us were a couple of days of driving - we needed to gain some land after spending more time in Rwanda than we planned, but it was soo worth it - thank you for having us Rwanda, and thank you for all the beautiful people we have met.

week 36 - 37 - arriving in Rwanda - Africa's Switzerland but also much more

The border crossing to Rwanda went very smooth and easy, we even got a visa for free, because Switzerland is a francophone country, just like Rwanda. We heard so much about this country, about how organized and structured it is, and very different to all the other African countries - they also call is “Switzerland of Africa”, so we were very curious to what to expect. The very first impression was not that big of a difference from driving in Uganda, until we came across the first speeding camera, and then the second and third. We have not seen as many speeding cameras even in Switzerland and for sure not anywhere else in Africa. Having a size of only 26.338 km² (which is just a liitle more than half the size of Switzerland), Rwanda is the most densely populated country in Africa. After the genocide, which ended in 1994, Rwanda has developed from one of the poorest countries in Africa to one of the most developed. We already experienced this on our first stop in Musanze. It was the first city after the border we crossed, where we stopped for one night to get settled. The usual procedure after entering a new country like getting cash and a sim card was on our schedule. There was a huge queue in front of the mobile phone store, but it went surprisingly quick and unlike other experiences we’ve had in Africa, the people working in the shop were very efficient and not sleeping behind the desk :-D We were hungry and looked for a restaurant and were treated to some freshly made pasta, freshly baked bread and an amazing coffee in the end. We also find a very nice but not expensive hotel, where we spent our first night. The next day after getting a car wash, we continued our trip to Kibuye at Lake Kivu.

We found Hotel Musaya at the lake, where we were allowed to camp directly at the shore of the lake on their lawn, the spot was just beautiful. Unfortunately, it was raining when we arrived. The rainy season in Rwanda was supposed to be coming to an end but Rwanda didn’t welcome us with sunshine - we were already worried if the weather would now stay bad for the next weeks after we were super lucky in Kenya and Uganda, where we barely had any rain eventhough it was supposed to be the rainy season there for the past two months. Due to the rain, we decided to have dinner at the restaurant of the hotel, where we met Simba, the owner of the place. We had nice talks with him about Rwanda in general and what he’s doing here. After growing up in South Africa, he came back to his origin country Rwanda a few years ago and started doing business in tourism. Simba is just about our age and besides running the hotel, he is also building a house boat for tourists to explore lake Kivu - amazing!

The next morning, the rain had stopped and we set up our camp and were served a delicious breakfast to our car, which was ordered by Simba as a welcome gesture. Eventhough the weather was still not too good, we made plans to hike part of the Congo-Nile-Trail, a hiking trail along Lake Kivu. If you hike the full trail, it takes 10 days, however, we decided to do only parts of it. We took a boat from Kibuye to Musasa and walked from there to Gisenyi in three days. We first intended to go on the hike without a guide, since it is very safe and well marked it is possible to do it on your own. But then we met Jean.Paul, a young local tour guide, and after negotiating a price that was in our budget, we decided to take him with us, which was a great idea. This way, we were able to interact with the locals along the way and we learned a lot about the culture and life in Rwanda.

We slept in basic guesthouses along the route. At the first stop at Kinunu Guest House, we met a French couple and another Thomas from Belgium. We had a fun evening together and since they were walking in the other direction than we were, we made plans to meet again in Kibuye, where we had left our Defender, in a couple of days after the hike. We really enjoyed walking along the beautiful Lake Kivu and experiencing this country by foot and for once not in the car, it was a great change.

Back at Hotel Musaya, we met Thomas from Belgium, and since it was his birthday, we had a spontaneous little birthday party at the lake together with Simba and his friends and some other local guests of the hotel. We stayed for another couple of nights and could have easily stayed for another month. Lake Kivu is for sure one of the most beautiful spots we have seen on our trip, the sunsets were magic with the fishermen singing and going out on the lake. We loved doing some yoga in the morning with that amazing view and jumping into the lake afterwards before eating breakfast and reading a book in the afternoon or speaking to the locals who stopped by. Rwanda turned out to be a country of Defender lovers, we had two Defender owners who came to vist us at our campsite in Kibuye because they heard that someone in a Defender was camping there, and many more came by and asked if we would sell the car - of course, we had to decline, since our trip is not even half way through, but now we know where we can go to in case we need money before we go back home lol.

We really could have stayed at Lake Kivu forever but we decided to continue our trip together with Thomas from Belgium, he had the same route in mind but unfortunately, he was running out of time, because his flight back home was already in a few days. To continue the trip with two Thomas’, I sat in the back of the Defender, which was a new feeling and way of travel for myself :D

We spent one more night at the very south of Lake Kivu, before we continued east through the Nyungwe Forest National Park, which is one of the oldest and the best preserved rainforest in Africa. During our drive through the park, we enjoyed looking at the many different plants and trees and also saw some very curious monkeys who almost jumped inside the car. After we left the national park, we continued to the Murambi Genocide Memorial, one of many memorials that have been set up in Rwanda to remember the ones who died during the genocide and to inform about what happened and to ensure that something as terrible as this will never happen again. It is quite intense to visit this place and it needs some time to process. At this specific memorial, over 50.000 people are buried and some of the bodies are preserved and shown to the visitors together with the stories of the cause of their injuries and deaths. A truly tragic part of Rwanda’s and the world’s history but also remarkable to see to what this country has risen within not even thirty years.

Thomas, Thomas, Roch and Olivia

We continued to Butare, where Thomas’ (the Belgium one;) ) uncle Roch lives. He invited us to stay at his lovely home and we were spoiled with a delicious dinner. We enjoyed the talks about live in Africa and how traveling changes your view on the world. One phrase that stuck with me was: “When you travel or live abroad and you come back home, the place you find usually hasn’t changed a lot - but you have “. All the experiences we’re having , people we’re meeting and memories we’re making along the road have for sure have a big impact on our world views and that’s what I love most about traveling.

The next day, Roch took us with him to see and check on his bee hives. Roch is originally from France but has moved to Rwanda many years ago and started a honey business. We were able to taste some honey and it for sure was delicious - in fact, we learned that Rwanda is quite famous for its honey. Before we could visit the bees, we were all dressed up in bee suits to be protected from bee stings. Together with Roch’s students, who are being thaught on how to produce honey, we went to check on the hives. It was very interesting and we learned a lot about bees and the process of gaining honey. Did you know, that bees only live around 45 days? Except the queen, she can live up to 5 years! After our bee visit it was time to say goodbye to Roch and the three of us continued our journey to Kigali, Rwanda’s capital city.