week 48 - 50 - Scenic flights, rides and sites around Maun

Our destination after the salt pans and the Makgadikgadi National Park (don’t worry, I still can not pronounce that name either) was Maun, the tourist capital of Botswana. Its location between all the famous national parks at the edge of the Okavango Delta, which makes it a hotspot for all tourists. Therefore, we had plenty of camps and lodges to choose from. Barbara, Urs, Tom and I agreed to stay at the “Audi Camp”. Our first mission, however, was to get our cars clean. We emptied our vehicles at the campsite and asked at the reception to leave our valuables, then we drove into town and left our empty cars with some guys who did a great job cleaning them inside and outside. In the meantime, we enjoyed some lovely food at the “Dusty Donkey”, a nice little restaurant downtown. That’s where we also met the famous Nelly; he is from the UK but has been traveling around Africa in his Landy for a few years. He is the one who started and administrated the huge Whatsapp group chat “Overlanding Africa,” where all the African overlanders can become members and where we have already received many useful tips along the way. Nelly was interested in buying our small drone (Tom wanted to buy the latest drone, but since we were already carrying two drones with us, we needed to make some space int the car, we therefore sold both drones we were carrying with us). It’s always fun to finally meet someone you have been in contact with for a while but never met in person. Nelly was happy with the drone after he did a small test flight. He also helped us to get some stuff sorted in town; he showed us where to fill our gas bottle, get water and the best diesel; it was a very efficient trip around the city. We returned to the campsite where Barbara and Urs were already waiting for us. For dinner, we tried the lodge restaurant, which was a great idea; the food was delicious.

The following day, Tom and I went into town to buy groceries. When we entered the mall where the big supermarket was, there was another little shop that sold everything and nothing. Of course, we couldn’t pass it without stepping in (you remember Tom’s addiction to gadgets of any kind). We exited with a new lighter, a new plug for the car, and a small FM transmitter, which was a gift for Barbara and Urs. They could not listen to their music from their phone because their car radio didn’t have Bluetooth. When we returned to the campsite after buying our groceries, we gave them the little present, and they were thrilled. For the rest of their trip, they enjoyed listening to all their favorite songs :)

The next day, Tom and I organized a little date day for ourselves. We enjoyed traveling with company a lot, especially with Barbara and Urs, but from time to time we like taking time just for the two of us. We started our date day with a small lunch at “Hilary’s”, Urs and Barbara gave us a ride into town because they had some things to do in the city. After the lunch, we then continued to the “Duck Cafe Bar” to enjoy a glass of wine, before we went next door to Helicopter Horizons, where a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta was waiting for us. We were just about to pay for the flight when the lady at the desk asked for our passports, which we didn’t bring with us. Since the flights were leaving from the airport, it was necessary to have the passport with you. Maybe they forgot to tell us when we booked the flights the day before, or maybe we were too euphoric and didn’t hear it, it didn’t matter anyway, our flight was supposed to leave in 20 minutes and our passports were at the campsite another 20 minutes away. Also, we didn’t have our car, there was no way we would have made it back in time. Just in that moment, Barbara and Urs came around the corner. They stopped at the airport because they wanted to check if they could see us leave in the Helicopter. We told them about our problem and Urs quickly offered to drive us back. Tom went with him to grab our passports while I sorted out another flight time with the lady at the desk. She postponed our flight for another hour and we still got to do our scenic flight over the Okavango Delta. And it was maaaagic! What a great experience this was! It was only from above, that we realized the size of the delta. Besides the spectacular scenery, we could also spot many elephants who were bathing and drinking, as well as some zebras and buffaloes and elands and - we could not believe our luck - we even spotted a lioness under a tree, it was just breathtaking.

After the flight, we went back to the “Duck Cafe Bar” for another drink, before we headed to “Marc’s Eatery”, an excellent restaurant, where we treated us to a very nice dinner. It was a perfect date day and we came back happy and tired (and a little bit tipsy).

The next day, it was time to get going again. Our last mission together with Barbara and Urs (for now) was the Moremi National Park. The two of them had been there many years ago and it was a big dream of them to go back for another visit. However, the first challenge was, that you’re only allowed inside the park for multiple days with your own vehicle, if you have a reservation for a campsite, and they are hard to get. Luckily, we managed to make a booking for two nights and were all set to drive in the park. We had already heard some stories about the bad roads inside the park, and when we arrived at the entrance gate, the lady explained to us which route we should take, which roads were possible to drive and she also informed us, that there was a bridge which collapsed, so we were facing at least one river crossing. Nevertheless, we drove into the park enthusiastically, ready for another adventure.

Unfortunately, there were not too many animals around. We saw giraffes and elephants and zebras, but the rest of the wild life seemed to be hiding or staying in a different part of this enormous park. On the other hand, the park itself was beautiful. Our cars manouvred smoothly on the sandy roads and soon we reached the collapsed bridge. Since we knew, that we were supposed to cross the river, because the lady at the entrance told us so, we dared to do the river crossing and successfully reached the other side.

We drove to our first campsite “Third Bridge Camp” and set up our rooftents for the night. Urs and Barbara cooked a delicious meal for dinner. The next morning, we left our camp very early in the morning, hoping we would have more luck seeing some wild cats in the early hours. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot them, but the ride through the park in the cool morning hours was still very nice. We returned to our camp, enjoyed a small breakfast and continued our trip to our second campsite called “Xakanaka”. When we arrived at the our camping spot, there was a hippo grassing around our cars. We dared to get out of the car and slowly set up our camp, the hippo couldn’t have cared less about our presence. Our neighbors on the campsite were some South Africans who had been camping here for almost a week. They informed us, that they saw two lions the night before at the campsite, which again had no fence. Apparently, the lions were chasing a buffalo and ran between the cars and tents. They advised us to not walk to the ablutions after dark, and we of course took their advice. Tom and I went for a short evening game drive while Barbara and Urs took a rest. After we returned, Tom and I grilled some burgers for us all for dinner, it was another feast.

We spent a quiet night without any lion action and again left early for another morning game drive the next day. This time, we were rewarded for getting up early; shortly after we had left the campsite, a group of wild dogs crossed our paths. It was the first time Tom and I saw these endangered animals in the wild. We returned to the campsite for breakfast and had to talk to the lady in charge. We realized that we were charged four days park entry fee instead of 3. She told us that we could stay another night at the campsite <, even though we did not have a reservation and apparently, it was all booked out. We stayed in the shade of the camp during the hot afternoon hours and went for another evening game drive. When we returned, the campsite was still almost empty, there were only two other parties, and we had more than enough space to set up our camp again. On our last day in Moremi National park, we slowly made our way to the North Gate, where we exited again. To drive back to Maun, you must drive through the Khwai Reserve, where wildlife is also around. They do not charge entry, however, all the campsites in this area belong to the Khwai community and are relatively expensive; that’s how they make their income instead of charging entry fees. This was a bit unfortunate for us since we already did our game drives in the Moremi National Park and only wanted to transit through Khwai. We stopped at a campsite where they charge 350pula (28 US dollars) for absolutely nothing, the camp wasn’t very nice, and the ablutions were super basic and so far from the different campsites that they told us we would have to take the car to go to the toilet because it was too dangerous to walk that far because of the wild animals. We decided not to spend the money there and continued our trip to another campsite outside of the Khwai Reserve. This resulted in a very long driving day; the road was terrible, we couldn’t drive more than 30 km/h, and it was boiling hot. We were exhausted when we finally reached the “Maako’s Rest Camp” we found on IOverlander. Luckily, the owners were super friendly and the camp was nice. We jumped under the shower, cooked Spaghetti for dinner and when we were sitting around the fire with a glass of wine before going to bed, a hyena howled extremely loud just next to our cars. We didn’t have any torches handy, so we couldn’t spot the hyena, but just hearing her howl so close was enough for us to quickly finish our drinks and go to bed to get some well-deserved rest.

On the bright side, our way back to Maun the next day was shorter. We reached Maun shortly before noon and headed straight to the car wash again. We got some groceries, and this time, we decided to stay at a different campsite on the other side of town called “Sitatunga”. It was a very nice campsite with a lovely pool, and we enjoyed two peaceful days with Barbara and Urs before they had to continue to Windhoek to catch their flight back home. Tom and I planned to stay a few more days in Maun because we had a lot of picture editing, blog writing, and movie making to do and needed a good internet connection.

For our last night together, after more than one month of traveling together, Barbara, Urs, Tom, and I went back to “Marc’s Eatery”, the restaurant Tom and I already visited, and we spent a lovely evening with fantastic food and wine. The next day, it was time to say goodbye. We were all very sad but promised to meet again, either at the beginning of next year when they return to South Africa or back in Switzerland when we would all be back from our travels.

After Barbara and Urs had left the next morning, Tom and I took our laptops and started with our “work”. It went ok in the morning, but later during the day, more and more people came to the campsite and restaurant, so the wifi was running very slowly and it was almost impossible to get anything done. We decided to follow Urs and Barbara the next day to a campsite between Maun and Windhoek, where they told us that the internet worked very well. The next morning, we were just packing up our stuff, when I was shortly scrolling through my Instagram Feed and saw that Marco, a friend of ours from Zurich, was on a holiday in Botswana with his family and his girlfriend Belinda. I texted him and asked about their travel plans and he told me that they were just about to get on a plane back to Maun and from there they would fly to Johannisburg in South Africa. Tom and I took the chance to make a little detour back to the airport and just when we walked into the airport building, they were arriving too. They had time for a drink in between their flights and we took the time to catch-up.

After they had left again, we went to get some groceries and drove to the “Symponia Guesthouse and Campsite”, where we surprised Barbara and Urs. We cooked another nice dinner together (by now, we were professionals in preparing delicious meals with whatever we could find in our two fridges) and enjoyed the company once more. The next morning, they left very early, we got up to say goodbye and then moved to the restaurant and pool area of the lodge, where finally, the internet was running very smoothly and we got to get some work done. In only one week, my parents would already arrive in Windhoek, where we would continue the trip with company again. The campsite was the perfect place to rest a few days, it had super clean showers and great infrastructure, the owner was very friendly too, we had lovely neighbors from Italy who had been traveling for two years already and to top that, there was the cutest dog who seemed to like us a lot as well. He stayed around our campsite day and night and wanted to play, it was almost impossible for us to do our workouts in the morning :)

week 47 - 48 - Botswana, the land of elephants, salt pans and countless stars

Barbara, Urs, Tom and I arrived in Kasane, a town just after the border in Botswana and first went to buy some groceries and a new sim card. There was a little shopping mall where you could get everything, again, a very different picture compared to East Africa. After getting everything we needed for the next few days, we drove to the Chobe Safari Lodge, which is quite famous amongst Overlanders. Luckily they had two spots for us. We decided to stay three nights to have some time to relax beside the game drives we had planned to do in the Chobe National Park. Tom came up with the idea that we could do a game drive with a guide and an open safari vehicle instead of self-driving with our two cars. He quickly went to the reception, and within no time, he had organized a car and driver for the next day for us. It was a great change to sit back and relax for a full day, and we enjoyed our time in the park a lot.

Mike, our tour guide and driver, was very experienced and especially surprised us with his knowledge of all the birds in the park. He knew every name and had a book with him where we could read about them. Whenever we passed a bird, he could tell us its name, including the book page where we could find it. But we did not only see birds; we saw big groups of elephants, one time we passed probably more than 200 elephants at the river, and we saw many hippos and giraffes and zebras and buffaloes as well.

Mike also gave his best to find some lions; he heard that a group had killed two buffaloes the day before, so we went looking for them. We found the two buffalo carcasses; it was stunning how much had already been gone after just a few hours, the vultures were just having their turn on the leftovers, but the lions had already been gone. We kept on looking and instead of the lions we found another carcass of an elephant. This one probably had died due to natural causes, Mike told us, the lions hadn’t touched it, but a lot of other animals had eaten half of this huge animal.

In the late afternoon, we finally found the big group of lions hiding from the sun beneath some trees. It was an exciting and nice safari day, and we learned many new things about Africa’s wildlife. Just before we left the park, there were two young two French guys who asked us for help because they got stuck with their car in the sand. Of course, we helped them, and Mike did a fabulous job pulling them out of the sand again.

The next day we spent at the campsite, where we also had a great view over the Chobe River where many elephants were drinking and bathing, a lovely spot. Also, we met a old friend again: Victor was our neighbour on the campsite, he stopped here as well with his bus on the Interpit-Tour. Besides watching the elephants, we spent the rest of the day making some plans for our upcoming travels in Namibia, where my parents would visit us. Usually, we never planned much of our routes, but when you travel together with other people, it’s good to have a rough plan and we’ve been advised to also pre-book some of the campsites in Namibia, since tourism started to pick up again. Barbara, Urs and of course Victor, who all have traveled around in Namibia told us their favorite spots and routes, which was very helpful.

The following day we continued south to the Elephant Sands Lodge, a lodge and campsite with a huge waterhole where elephants always come by to drink. Charline, the French girl we met in Zambia, recommended this place to us and we weren’t disappointed. Before we even reached the camp, we passed some elephants on the way. It was stunning to observe the countless elephants who came by to stop at the waterhole all day long. They just walked through the campsite which did not have a fence. Another nice surprise was our neighbor: we met Erwin again, the Dutch guy on his motorbike. He joined us for dinner, and Tom cooked his famous chili con carne while I was trying to catch up with our blog and write our experiences but it was hard to not get distracted by all the elephants :)

From Elephant Sands, Barbara, Urs, Tom, and I continued to Nata, a small town, where we made the last stop before driving into the Salt Pans of Botswana. We expected very sandy roads and to get stuck all the time, but we were two cars and had all the necessary gear, so it should not be a problem. When we left the tarmac road, we let some air out of our tires and continued on the sandy roads towards the pans. It had been so dry during the last two months that we had no problems driving around, and we didn’t get stuck once. The dust, however, was a different story. Our cars looked terrible after only a few minutes; everything was white. Since Defenders are not a very dust-free ride, Tom and I tried to cover the doors with some towels to prevent more dust and sand from getting inside, but it was almost impossible to keep it out. We spent some very hot and dusty days, but the views and the unique experience made up for all the struggles. We spent three days in the pans. On day one, we drove to Kukonje Island. To reach it, we had to cross our first salt pan; it was easy to find the way since the tracks on the pan were clearly visible. On our way back, we tried to follow some other trails along the pan instead of driving back to the main road. This, however, did not work out. After a few kilometers, the tracks got lesser and the way very narrow through some thick bushes and then out onto the pan again, where we weren’t sure if we would not get stuck. So after an hour, we decided to turn around and return to the safer main road, which was also a sand road, but at least we were sure it was leading to the next camp where we wanted to spend a night.

The shower that night felt great and we treated ourselves to a dinner at the restaurant. They did not have a lot from the choices from their menu card, but they suggested the burgers, which sounded good and they were indeed very tasteful but unfortunately served a bit cold. Nevertheless, we were ready for a second day out in the pans. Our destination today was Kubu Island. The scenerey was breathtaking, we stopped several times to take some pictures. Our two cars drove smoothly over the pans and we enjoyed our day a lot, eventhough it was very hot. When it was getting a little bit cooler in the late afternoon, we were looking for a spot to wild-camp at the edge of Ntwetwe pan for the night. We spent the most beautiful night with a breathtaking sunset and then cooked under countless stars a nice filet on the fire. Definitely a moment for the books. In the morning, some cows passed through our camp onto the salt pans. Once again we wondered how these animals were able to survive here in this dry area.

The last day, we crossed the biggest of the pans, Ntwetwe, where we camped and stopped at one of the oldest and biggest Baobab trees “Greene’s Baobab”, its older brother “Chapman’s Baobab” unfortunately has collapsed. On our way we saw some ostriches and many other animals, like donkeys, cows and some horses. We spent the night in Gweta on a little campsite, and when we finally arrived, we were exhausted and desperately wanted to jump into a pool, and we would have also loved to drive the Defender into the pool as well, it was beyond dusty. But there was no car wash close by, and our ongoing route was still on sandy roads, so we only did a quick brush-up of gthe car. “Embrace the dust” was our motto once more, but the three days in the pans had exhausted us. We were all in need of some time to rest and recharge out batteries again. Still, we decided to continue one more day and drive through the Makgadikgadi National Park the next day to reach the Bobeti River Campsite, which was supposed to be lovely and a better spot to rest for a couple of days.

When we entered the National Park the next day, deep sandy roads welcomed us again together with very thick bushes, so it was impossible to see any animals. We were already slightly disappointed and questioned our plans, but after 30 kilometers, we arrived at the very low but not completely dry Bobeti River. Probably every single animal of this national park was in this river bed. We saw thousands of zebras, hundreds of Gnus, and dozens of elephants. Some vultures were drying their feathers while impalas were jumping around. Hippos came out of the water, and even an ostrich took a sand bath next to the river. It was unreal! We drove up and down the river bed between the countless animals, and once more, we were amazed at how every game drive is so special and unique every single time; you cannot get tired of it. Exiting the park, we crossed the Bobeti River to reach the campsite. It was a rather deep river crossing; thankfully, there was a local who could tell us where to drive through it. We managed and could set up our camp under the shade of some nice trees. For dinner, we had a pre-cooked bolognese I prepared the day before, and Tom installed our camping cinema so we could watch a movie. We decided on “A united kingdom,” a beautiful true story from Botswana about their king. He married a white English lady, and how they fought for their love and prevented the terrible apartheid from South Africa from swapping over to their country. A beautiful movie night under the countless stars of Botswana.